Northwest
Region
 |
 |
NEWS RELEASE
By: Tim Baker
Northwest Region Horticulture Specialist
University of
Missouri Extension
102 Main, Suite 1
Gallatin, MO 64640
660-663-3232
BakerT@missouri.edu
Release Date: March 12, 2009
Title: “A Primer on Basic Gardening, Part 3"
After finding a good spot for your garden, and getting a soil test, the next step is to actually prepare the beds for planting. But before you get out that tiller, there are a few factors to consider.
First of all, how should your rows be oriented? If you have a level spot, it’s best to run your rows north and south. If you run them east and west, the north sides of the rows will be shaded, and will not receive direct sunlight. Running your rows north and south allows each side of the row to receive sunlight throughout the day.
The only precaution about running your rows north and south is that if you grow taller plants, such as sweet corn, place them on the north end of the garden so that they do not shade smaller plants.
If your garden spot is not level, it’s best to orient the rows along the contour of the land. This will help prevent soil erosion, and reduce runoff.
Next, try to remove as many weeds and other living vegetation as possible. If there are seeds left in the seed heads, try not to distribute those seeds as you remove them. You will find out that there are plenty of weed seeds already in the soil, and you certainly don’t want to add more.
Now it’s time to look at that soil test. As discussed in my last column, there will be recommendations for you to follow to improve your soil’s pH and nutrient levels. If your soil is too acid, lime will be recommended. If it’s too alkaline, sulfur may be suggested. There may be recommendations for phosphorus, potassium or other minerals. Often, nitrogen may be suggested.
These materials can be spread out over your garden site at the recommended rates before tilling. Some fertilizers, such as nitrogen, may be divided into several applications. For example, it’s common for only part of the nitrogen to be put down at planting for vine crops, with the remainder added when the vines start to run. This practice is called side dressing.
If you have a good source of organic matter such as compost, now is the time to spread it over your garden. It’s hard to get too much organic matter, and spreading it out several inches deep over your garden is perfect. Be aware that some sources of organic matter may introduce weed seeds, so be aware of the quality of your source.
Ok, so you’ve got that brand new shiny tiller and you can hardly wait to use it. Before you start using it, I have another precaution.
Tiller’s are great, and save a lot of work. They can prepare a loose, well-mixed soil that any seed would just love to grow in. But the tilling process, whether by machine or hand tools, does destroy soil structure. Using a mechanized tiller can lead to further problems on down the road, if not done correctly.
The main problem with a motorized tiller is that they are easily overused. As the tines rotate, mixing and loosening the soil, they will be bearing down at one point in their cycle. If that is repeated too much, it can actually create a compacted layer, just below the tines. Through time, that can lead to a hardpan, with poor drainage, and with some soils, problems with root penetration. So be careful with your tiller.
After tilling the soil, it’s time to rake everything. In some areas, you may have rocks. It’s best to remove them. If you have a lot of rocks, this will be long-term process. If there is any other debris, remove it as well. This might include weed roots that you many have missed before.
I would also encourage you to consider raised beds. Typically, many soils in north Missouri have a heavy clay content. These are not well-drained. If you have a lot of rain, using a raised bed can help promote drainage.
You can put as much time, effort, and money into a raised bed as you like, or very little, if desired. On the low-labor-input side, simply rake the soil into a raised bed, several inches or more above the path where you will walk. If you want to create something more permanent, materials of some type can be used to raise the planting bed greater distances above the path. Concrete blocks work great, but can be expensive. Wood looks good, but will rot, unless it’s treated. But treated lumber could introduce chemicals into the landscape that you may not want around your vegetable garden. Before you invest in an expensive raised bed, I would suggest looking through garden magazines to see what appeals to you, and how expensive it may be.
University Extension programs are open to all
Return to
Newspaper Columns
Return to
Northwest
Missouri Horticulture Home Page
|
|
|||
 |
Horticulture for Northwest
Missouri |
 |
|
|
Tim Baker |
Tom Fowler |
||