Solving Lawn Problems: Part 3, Warm Season Grasses
By: Dale Mermoud, Master Gardener

This is the third in a series of three articles covering some of the problems and solutions associated with warm season grasses. Warm season grasses include Zoysia, Bermuda, and Buffalograss.

Advantages of warm season grasses are: better resistance in high traffic and compacted areas; shorter growing season than cool season grasses (end of May to mid-October) may reduce the amount of mowing needed, and in the case of buffalograss mowing may be eliminated; will cover bare areas quickly; can tolerate high summer temperatures and reduced watering. The disadvantages are: goes dormant at first frost and turns brown from November to mid-May; aggressive growth habit by runners with excessive fertilizer; will not grow in shade areas (north side of trees and buildings).

Warm season grasses are started by plugs and sprigs. Only rarely will seed or sod be used. Sod may be used in areas of high erosion. A sprig refers to a 6-inch portion of plant that includes a runner (stolon), roots, and leaves but no soil. Sprigs are less expensive than plugs but require more care to get started. Space sprigs 6-inches apart and cover only the root portion of the plant.

Plugs are in essence a small chunk of sod. Plugs are a 2 to 3-inch piece of sod with plant, roots and soil all connected. Because plugs contain a root ball, moisture is retained and less care is required to establish a lawn. Plant plugs with root portion in newly prepared soil surface, space at 12 inches, closer if quicker coverage is desired.

Some cultural practices to perform during the year are:

March-April: kill broadleaf weeds with approved herbicides.

May: begin mowing at 2-inch level, fertilize, applying fertilizer in March and April will only promote weed growth.

June-August: mow at 2-1/2 to 3-inch level, water as needed.

September-October: mow at 2-inch level, apply lime according to soil test, spray herbicides for broad leaf weed control, inter-seed cool season grasses to give green color during winter months.

To establish or renovate a warm season grass, prepare the soil the same as for cool season grasses. Make 2 applications of a glyphosate herbicide to kill unwanted vegetation, mow close, rake and remove excess dead vegetation, till or power rake the area and rake and remove debris. Apply fertilizer and/or soil amendments and till to 6-inch depth. Rake to level the area then plant sprigs or plugs and water as needed. This can be done from May to August. Planting after August will not give sufficient time for plants to establish and cover the area before frost.

A low maintenance alternative is to plant buffalograss. This is a native grass that is very heat and drought tolerant. Because this grass grows very slowly, minimal mowing is needed. As little as 2 to 3 mowings at 3-inch level may be all that is needed to remove old growth and eliminate a "ragged" appearance. This grass is started by sprigs and plugs during the growing season. Patience and perseverance are the key to success with buffalograss. It does not produce a dense stand like fescue. Plant springs or plugs at 12-inch spacing. The stand will become thicker each year. Weed control and watering are important the first year. Over watering will promote weed competition. Buffalograss may be the solution to a rocky south-facing slope that is hard to mow.

For more information contact the University of Missouri Extension center in your area and request MU Guide G6706, "Establishment and Care of Zoysia"; G6730 "Establishment and Care of Buffalograss"; and G6770 "Bermudagrass Establishment."