Solving Lawn Problems: Part One
By: Dale Mermoud, Master Gardener

This is the first in a series of three articles dealing with lawn care, some of the problems and some of their solutions. This first part will cover problems associated with lawns in general. More specific applications will be contained in the next articles dealing with cool season grasses and warm season grasses.

Poor soil is the most common cause for a unattractive lawn. Natural topsoil varies greatly from one location to another and even from one yard to another. How we improve the soil will determine the vitality of a lawn.

Your lawn will be in place for many years so when establishing a lawn it is important to do it right. Get a soil test and correct fertilizer and pH deficiencies before starting. Work in these materials in the top 6 inches of soil. Organic matter is important to a successful lawn. Organic matter should be 2 percent or higher. The major factors affecting lawn performance are sun, shade, fertility, poor drainage and to a lesser extent excessive drainage.

Sun areas are those parts of your lawn that receive less than 6 hours of shade per day. Think of these as the east, south, and west sides of a tree or structure.

Shade area is that part of your yard that has greater than 6 hours of shade per day i.e. the north side of a tree or building. Grasses will grow different in sun and shade areas.

Poor drainage is a major factor. Avoid a perfectly level yard! It should be raised 6 inches in the center or around buildings to provide good drainage. A depression as little as 3 or 4 inches lower than the rest of the yard can produce a poor lawn whereas grass on the remainder of the lawn will flourish because of better drainage and be only a matter of several feet apart. Poor drainage is usually but not limited to north facing slopes. Excessive drainage may be on south slopes or extremely rocky soils with little or no organic matter or topsoil.

There are several materials available to improve the soil and improve poor drainage and help in excessively drained soils.

Peat: This material is readily available at lawn and garden centers. Peat makes the soil more granular and more easily worked.

It improves the escape of excess water and at the same time holding more water for plants. Peat allows air to enter the soil to promote good root growth. Although peat contains some nutrients it should not be considered a fertilizer. Apply at a 1 to 2 inch depth.

Manure: In some areas barnyard manure is readily available. Composted or dried manure is preferred since weed seeds and disease problems are reduced. Apply at 1 to 3 inch layer. Fresh manure should be avoided unless you have the capability to stock pile the material and allow it to compost before using.

Wood products: Sometimes saw dust or wood shavings are available. These should be avoided unless you plan to compost them before use. Wood chips and bark are generally too coarse to use and should be used only for mulching.

Sewage Sludge: This may be available from a local sewage treatment plant. Use only dried material and apply at the same rate as manure. Check state Department of Natural Resources regulations before using this material.

Compost: Homemade or purchased compost is an excellent soil improvement. Compost can be made from chopped leaves, straw, grass clippings, plant and/or weed materials. Apply at 1 to 3 inch layer.

Other agricultural materials may be available such as peanut shells, rice hulls, corncobs, or cottonseed hulls. These may be acceptable if they are finely ground. Normally they are too coarse to be used as a soil amendment.

For more information contact your University of Missouri Extension center and request MU Guide 6955, "Improving Lawn and Landscape Soils."