Now that the hot summer days are gone, it is time to think about getting the lawn and garden ready for winter.

Perennial plants should be divided so they will maintain their vigor. As plants such as peonies and lilies grow from year to year, they gradually become root bound and flower size diminishes. Plant tops should be cut back about half and the whole root system should be dug. Use two spading forks placed back to back to divide the root clumps into smaller sections. Take the sections to another area of the yard and set them about 3 feet apart at the original depth. Blooms the first year will be smaller but they will recover in ensuing years.

Peonies should be dug and the roots carefully divided. Each root section should have 2-3 “eyes” after division. Set these eyes 3-4 feet apart just below ground level and water thoroughly. Treat divided roots with a fungicide if there are any signs of fungus.

Pick the last of the tomatoes and peppers and clear the refuse from the garden. Old plant refuse may carry disease and pest residues and will be a source of re-infestation next spring. Tomato cages and stakes that will be used next season should be cleaned and disinfected. Use a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to spray the surface of the cages. Other garden equipment can be disinfected with the same solution. This will prevent disease spores, mites and other problems from carrying over next year. Cages and stakes left out all winter will usually be disinfected by sunlight. This process is known as solarization.

Fruit trees, vines, and other plants need protection from animals and low temperatures. Place commercial garden wraps around tree trunks to keep animals from feeding on the bark. Aluminum foil or cardboard can also be used as a barrier. A fence of chicken wire will protect raspberry or blackberry canes.

Old fruit that remains on trees or on the ground can be a source of disease or insects. Remove old fruit, weeds and long grass from the orchard. Diseased and damaged wood should also be removed this fall.

Strawberry beds should be mulched to help prevent plant injury from low temperatures. Straw or prairie hay should be spread over the plants 4-6 inches deep. The mulch should be put on by mid-December to protect plants from severe cold. Ground leaves may also be used. The mulch should be moved between the rows once the plants break dormancy in the spring.

Gardens should be tilled in preparation for next year. Leaves, grass clippings, compost or manures may be applied to allow these materials to partially decompose by the start of the next garden season. Fertilizer, lime, or sulfur should be added as indicated by soil test results. These materials will be dissolved in the plant root zones by next spring.

Lawns in this area respond well to fertilizer applications in September and November. The grass is still photosynthesizing but growth has decreased The increased photosynthethate will be stored in the roots and the results will be a greener lawn next spring. The fertilizer must have a readily available form of nitrogen as the growing season is almost over. Use a soluble fertilizer such as urea or ammonium nitrate. The nitrogen will be readily available to the plants before growth stops this fall.

Broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, henbit, and chickweed can be controlled by applying a broadleaf weed killer this fall. The weeds must be actively growing and the temperature should be above 50°F when treated. Products containing 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba work well on dandelion, henbit, chickweed, and thistles. Spray when there is no wind as drift is a problem for other plants in the neighborhood.

Spring bulbs should be planted before the ground freezes. They will develop root systems over the winter and produce flowers next spring. They will not bloom unless a chilling requirement is met. Plant the bulbs at a depth equal to 2-3 times their width. Tulip bulbs should be set about 6 inches deep. Allow 4-6 inches between the large bulbs and about 2 inches between the small bulbs. Gardeners often throw bulbs on the bed and place them in the soil, causing an irregular display when they bloom. This presents a better display than when the bulbs are planted singly. The location should be in full sunlight with a soil ph of 6-7. Mix about 1 pound of 13-13-13 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed. Water the area thoroughly and place a layer of mulch over the bed to prevent heaving in the spring.

For additional information, ask for the following guide sheets at your local of Missouri Extension Center or link to them on-line.

Steps in Fertilizing Garden Soil: Vegetables and Annual Flowers, G 6950

Understanding and Using Garden and Home Grounds Herbicides, G 6951

Improving Lawn and Landscape Soils, G 6955

Making and Using Compost, G 6956

Mulches, G 6960