Seed Starting - Jill’s Method
I began starting tomato plants from seed to try different varieties not readily available at garden centers. Tomatoes are very easy to start and this boosted my confidence to try other vegetables and flowers. I have inexpensive fluorescent lights hung in the basement from chain over an old patio table. These lights can easily be raised/lowered. I plug the lights into a timer so that they are on 14-16 hours.
My method:
Select the seeds you want to start and check the packet to determine the date you need to start them so they’ll be ready to plant once our area is frost free.
Fill a flat with a seed starting mix. The flat should have drainage holes in it and set it inside one without drainage. This makes it easy to water from the bottom and to pour off excess.
Wet the mix with warm water.
Label the plastic flat with masking tape to mark the rows.
Record your row numbers and the variety you plan to plant in each row.
Sow your first row then cover with vermiculite.
Continue until you’ve filled the entire flat. If I’m planting different things I usually have 7-8 rows.
Water gently from the top with warm water.
Cover flat with a clear plastic cover. (These are sold at garden centers with the flat and can be used year after year) Once most of the seeds have sprouted, place the flat under the lights with the light about 4 inches from the surface.
Now I start watering from the bottom by lifting the inner flat and filling the outer one.
Raise the lights as the seedlings grow and run a fan to circulate the air. This also helps the stems to grow stronger.
When the seedlings are big enough to handle, I transplant them into their own containers. These containers are usually yogurt cups I’ve recycled and cut slits/holes in the base or plastic pots I’ve saved and cleaned from plant purchases. I fill the containers with a potting soil that contains some fertilizer. I also label each pot with a craft stick at this time.
These ‘pots’ are then placed in a tray so I can continue watering from the bottom.
I keep these under the lights until about a week before I want to plant them outside. It is very important to ‘harden off’ the seedlings before planting outside. To do this, I set the tray out in a shady area for 3-4 hours for the first couple of days and then each day increase the length of time they are left out. After they’ve spent several full days/nights outside, I plant them and give away the extras!
For the extension guidesheet regarding Starting Seeds, go to the following website:
http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06570.htm
Following is a list of plants I’ve found easy to start from seed:
Basil Cucumber Foxglove Marigolds Parsley Pepper
Salvia-annual & perennial Snapdragons Tomato Zinnias Zucchini
Delphinium (easy to start—it’s getting them to survive past one year that’s tricky)
Happy Seed Sowing!
The Moore Garden -- Top Ten List
Buxus (Boxwood) Love the formality and definition it adds to areas. Makes a great backdrop/border for all flowers. Looks beautiful all season and is easy care. Can be clipped to desired size/shape.
Delphinium A prima donna when trying to grow in the Midwest but so majestic. I especially love the blue varieties. I usually get several to over winter but I start new ones from seed every year so I always have them. Part of the fascination is the challenge of growing them here.
Vitex negundo (Cutleaf Chaste Tree) Found this growing at the Kauffman Gardens and had to have it. I trim it to tree form and it has a beautiful open arching shape. In mid to late summer it is loaded with small pale lavender blooms that have a wonderful delicate scent and attract hundreds of pollinators—I’ve never seen so many different ones on a single plant!
Caryopteris (Blue Mist Shrub) Blooms in late summer when cool color is needed to tone down the rudbeckia and sunflowers. I have it next to the burgundy foliage of ninebark shrubs.
Clematis These are incredible and easy—can cover a structure in one season with large or small blooms and a variety of colors. I have many but favorites are Durandii (blue) and Guernsey Cream.
Allium All varieties, they add such a whimsical, lollipop look standing up over other plantings. The Schubertii variety stay lower and looks like UFO’s parking in the garden. Great structure even after the blooms have dropped.
Roses Especially the English roses that seem less fussy than others but they are all irresistible. Heritage and Graham Thomas have been good performers.
Salvia All varieties annual and perennial-easy to grow, has wonderful fragrance and bloom. The ‘Blue Bedder’ variety once started will reseed itself for 2-3 years.
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea) great four season performer—the leaf color is incredible and it is much easier to grow that the mophead varieties.
Astilbe spp. Great shade plant---there are so many besides Hostas. I love the color they provide amongst all the cool greens of shady areas.
Lessons Learned from The Moore Garden
Start small and resist instant gratification. With smaller shrubs and plants, one can afford more and they are easier to plant and move if one changes his/her mind or the plants are not thriving. If the plant is happy, it will fill in the space quick enough.
Be adventurous. If there’s a plant you want to have in your yard, try it in several places to see where it’s happiest. There are usually small micro climates that may accommodate a zone 6 plant somewhere in you garden spaces.
Think about winter interest. Plant evergreens as backdrops and specimen plants. Also, include hardscape (arbors, paths, ornamentation, etc.) to give the garden shape in the winter months.
Mother Nature is ultimately in control. Just go with it. It’s usually for the best anyway.
Every garden is beautiful in its own way. For the love & care its owner has provided.