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I have a huge walnut tree I want taken down. In G5051, Selling Walnut Timber, it states that one should consult a professional forestry person. My goal is to have the tree removed, but not to have the cost of downing a tree. Since there is just one tree and not a harvesting kind of situation, where do I start?
I suggest you contact the Missouri Department of Conservation. They have urban foresters that serve the metropolitan areas of Missouri, and district foresters that assist rural landowners. Their services are free. They might be able to tell you if the tree has marketable lumber in it.
They maintain a list of logging companies that buy hardwood timber such as walnut. A logging company may be reluctant to come for just a single tree, due to their time and expense. You may end up paying someone to take down the tree, especially if its only value is for firewood. To protect yourself, be sure the person who takes down the tree is bonded and insured.
Bob Schultheis
Natural Resource Engineering Specialist
What are the grades of lumber? How do you describe the top grade to the lowest grade of lumber for use in framing of a home. I am purchasing a home which is now under construction and the lumber that has been used for the framing has been pieced together in a tongue and groove (with many tongues and grooves per splice) then glued. Is this an appropriate grade of lumber for framing? Before I approach the builder about the quality of the lumber, I need to know what I am talking about. Can you help educate me on this topic?
Those pieces of lumber should have a grade stamp on them from a nationally recognized grading agency (including Canadian). There are several of these agencies. Depending on the application, finger-jointed lumber (which is what I believe you are seeing) may be permitted in the grades. To the best of my knowledge, if you are building in an area where building codes are in force, no builder can use non-grade stamped lumber for structural members.
As a quick and dirty guide, softwood lumber is graded on being used in it's full length. This grade is based on knot size and location, slope of grain, amount of decay (none is best), and several other nit-picking factors. There are five overall groupings under the rules:
The appearance framing grade is not often seen in typical dwellings.
Each grade within these groupings is assigned allowable design stresses used by engineers in calculating needed sizes of lumber. These will vary among the many species that are on the market as well.
General and structural use
2 to 4 inches thick and 2 to 4 inches wide
2 to 4 inches thick and 6 inches plus wide
Even though the above table differentiates between general use and structural use, all those grades under general use do have structural design values and are commonly used in framing.
And remember, none of this applies to wooden I-beams or LVL or PSL lumber - which you also may see used in your house.
Bruce Cutter
Professor of Forestry
A container of wood was dropped into the harbor and remained submerged in salt water for seven hours. After retrieval, the wood weighed at least 30 percent heavier. Is this possible?
Yes, water absorption can increase the weight of wood by as much as 30 percent. The normal moisture content of wood is 60 to 70 percent, depending upon the species. That leaves the 30 to 40 percent of the remaining space normally occupied by air to be displaced by water if submerged long enough.
Hank Stelzer
Extension Forester
When is the best time to cut down trees for firewood? I've heard that as soon as the trees are fully leaved out the wood is at the lowest moisture content. I just tried this and noticed that the stumps are still soaking wet three weeks later.
Someone fed you an old wive's tale. Actually the wood moisture content drops during the tree's dormant season. Even then moisture content will be higher than desirable for firewood. Wood cut today should ideally season for a year before burning. You can speed up the drying by stacking the wood in the open and placing plastic over the pile. That will heat the wood and surrounding air. Periodically let fresh air in to replace the very moist air, which can accelerate decay.
Bruce Cutter
Professor of Forestry
How can I remove the ink grade stamp from lumber before staining or sealing the wood?
The only way I think might work is sanding (or planing) off the stamp. I wouldn't trust the use of solvents such as alcohol or water to remove the ink.
Bruce Cutter
Professor of Forestry
Updated 5/6/08
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