Reviewed August 1998
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The most valuable time devoted to any project is the time spent in planning. This publication is organized as a checklist to guide you through this process, whether you're building, buying, renting or remodeling. Checking the following features will tell you a lot about the quality of construction and design of a home.
Where a house is built is as important as how it is built. Site selection should take advantage of natural forces. Locating the house properly on the site will enable you to work with sun and wind patterns and with natural drainage. If you can choose your building orientation, you can maximize your energy benefits. If other factors dictate orientation, you can plan to minimize the detrimental impact.
An energy-efficient design can be developed for almost any lot, although this may require creative solutions and additional planning.
For the greatest energy efficiency, consider the following suggestions when planning your house:
Take advantage of a lot that allows the length (long dimensions) of the house to run east and west (the preferred direction)
This placement will allow you to put family living areas on the south and east where they will receive the most solar heat in winter. For energy efficiency, total glass area (windows and doors, etc.) should be limited to 10 percent to 15 percent of the floor area; major windows should be located on the south. The north wall should have few penetrations, such as doors and windows, that will leak air. Provide windbreaks on the north if possible. Air lock entries on north-facing entrances are also recommended.
Choose a building lot that allows the length (long dimension) of the house to face north and south, and gives the house maximum southern exposure
Protect the east and west sides of the house with deciduous trees to shade the house interior from the east and west summer sun. Use any south-facing windows to receive solar heat in winter. Protect the north side of the house by placing the garage there, if possible.
Design or choose a house plan that is rectangular -- a long thin house
Take advantage of the south wall, protect the north wall and shade the east and west walls, as previously indicated.
Put shade over the house
A well-ventilated attic and a well-insulated ceiling will give you the effect of having shade over your roof. Read on for ventilation and insulation recommendations.
Include a landscape plan for beauty and function
Large deciduous trees on the east, northwest and west provide summer shade and admit winter sun to varying degrees; because oaks tend to retain dead foliage in winter, they reduce radiant heat gain to the house. Evergreens and shrubs on the north and northwest provide a windbreak and can reduce winter fuel consumption from 10 percent to 25 percent if planted correctly.
Choose energy efficient outdoor lighting devices
Check to see if your choice of exterior fixtures have timers, photocells and/or motion sensors. They're an energy-efficient benefit because lights automatically turn on and off as needed. Photovoltaic (direct sunlight to electricity) conversion provides the ultimate solution to outdoor lighting. Because light is produced from cells that absorb solar energy in these devices, do not locate these lights in heavily shaded areas.
Housing construction costs are closely related to size. In addition to the initial construction costs, there are continuing costs such as energy, interest and maintenance. The larger the house, the more energy it takes to heat and cool it. Think about your present and future needs, and select a house plan just large enough to meet them.
For the greatest energy efficiency, consider the following suggestions when planning your house:
Make use of a building shape that lends itself to energy-efficient construction and conditioning
The more complex the shell, the more expensive it will be to build, insulate and seal. Heat loss per square foot is reduced with simple shapes, as are the complications associated with plumbing, ductwork, wiring, insulating and finishing.
The key to energy-efficient design is a high ratio of floor area to perimeter. It is important to obtain the most living space with the least exterior wall area.
Include an exterior wall design that incorporates energy-efficient construction technology
There are several options from which to choose. The sketches in Figure 1 show three exterior wall sections viewed from the top.
Note
Wind barriers, such as Tyvek on outside surfaces, are not listed in this publication. Wind barriers should not be confused with vapor barriers.
Figure 1
For best energy use, your house's shape should be simple.
Meet R-value recommendations for the state of Missouri
Current recommendations for insulation are R-30 for ceilings and R-19 for floors and walls. Remodelers will find ceilings the most accessible for adding insulation except for vaulted or cathedral ceilings. Uninsulated floors are the next place to consider. Unless you are planning to do extensive remodeling, you will find walls difficult to insulate. Previously uninsulated walls usually present no problem if a vapor barrier can be installed; however, partially insulated walls can be difficult and expensive to retrofit.
Include construction strategies to prevent moisture problems
Vapor barriers are placed to prevent moisture from the humid interior of the house from migrating into insulation, condensing and reducing its effectiveness. Install a 6-mil. polyethylene vapor barrier under the interior wall and ceiling covering. (Figure 2.)
Figure 2
Vapor barriers will prevent moisture from inside the house from reducing the effectiveness of insulation in exterior walls. Both of these exterior wall sections use energy-efficient construction methods.
a = gypsum wall board
b = vapor barrier
c = insulating sheathing
d = exterior siding
e = insulation
.Insulate the foundation
The issue of foundation insulation is complicated by the variety of foundation types in use:
Figure 3
A concrete slab-on-grade foundation should have the perimeter insulated with at least 2 inches of rigid extruded polyestyrene foam, at least 2 feet inside the perimeter
Concrete-slab construction
A concrete slab-on-grade foundation should have the perimeter insulated with at least 2 inches of rigid extruded polystyrene foam, at least 2 feet inside the perimeter. There are several alternatives. (Figure 3).
Crawlspace
A crawlspace foundation can be insulated on the exterior (using rigid polystyrene); a less expensive technique calls for the installation of fiberglass batt insulation between the floor joists with water pipe insulation. Provide a vapor barrier on the earth surface and ventilate the crawl space. Provide at least 1 square foot of net free-vent area for each 300 square feet of floor area. This should be provided by at least two, but preferably four, foundation wall vents.
Below-grade living space
Exterior insulation of a concrete foundation surrounding a full basement should depend on whether the below-grade area is going to be used for finished living space. If the basement will only be used for storage, it will be less expensive and easier to insulate the rim joist and between the floor joists using fiberglass batts or blown-in insulation. If the basement is to be finished and used as year-round living area, at least 2 inches of rigid polystyrene foam insulation should be installed and protected above the earth fill. In a remodeling situation, it will be easier and less expensive to install a stud wall (insulated with fiberglass batts or blown-in insulation) inside the concrete foundation.
Include adequate windows for light, ventilation and view without increasing your home energy costs
Compared to a well-insulated wall, a window with insulated double glazing will lose nearly 10 times the amount of heat per square foot during a cold winter day and transfer 10 times as much heat during hot summer days. The use of low emissivity (low-E) glass is strongly recommended. For approximately 10 percent to 15 percent more cost than sealed double-glazed windows, low-E glazing provides about 10 percent greater insulating value than triple glazing and 20 percent to 35 percent greater insulating value than double glazing. It helps somewhat in reducing fabric fading caused by ultra-violet radiation.
Make use of window units that are energy efficient, easily operated and easy to maintain
Double-pane windows cost approximately twice as much as single-pane but pay for themselves in decreased energy costs. Fixed-window units can be used except where ventilation and exit are needed. Wooden windows have a better thermal performance than metal but require more maintenance unless they are vinyl- or metal-clad. If metal units are chosen, look for a thermal break in both sash and jamb.
Incorporate exterior shading devices for added energy management opportunities during the summer
Sunlight transmitted through windows produces heat. Awnings, eaves, overhangs, sunscreens, louvers, shutters and some types of blinds are effective in blocking or reflecting the sunlight. In addition to shading, some of these also accommodate desired ventilation.
Utilize energy-efficient exterior doors
It is extremely important that all exterior doors be tight-fitting and well- weatherized. Steel-clad doors with an insulating foam core provide four to five times as much insulation as solid-core wood doors. All doors should be equipped with magnetic and/or compression weatherstripping to reduce air infiltration.
Provide ventilation strategies to reduce energy costs and protect insulation
Proper attic ventilation can reduce your air conditioning load and costs in the summer. In the winter, adequate ventilation stops moisture from accumulating and damaging insulation, wood framing and sheathing. The most efficient system for attic ventilation is nonmechanical and includes air intake at the soffit level and exhaust at the ridge level. If a continuous soffit/ridge vent is not practical, follow the guideline of 1 square foot of roof or gable ventilation to 300 square feet of attic floor with a vapor barrier in place. If a house is unshaded or has a dark roof, more ventilation is needed. In cases where the slope of the roof is 3 in 12 or less, mechanical systems may be necessary.
Meet the Missouri recommendations for needed overhang
Due to the change in the sun's angle from winter to summer, a properly
constructed overhang will shade a window in summer but will allow the sun's
rays to enter the home in the winter.In Missouri, each single foot of overhang
on a south-facing window will shade about 2 feet of wall from April 21 to Aug.
21.
Take advantage of exterior finishes that are not energy intensive
Finishes that require frequent painting, staining or replacement are intensive users of both human energy and energy resources. Whenever possible, choose those that do not require extensive transportation and fuel costs, that do not rely extensively on non-renewable resources and that do not contribute to pollution.
Table 1
Thermal resistance of building materials
| Insulating materials | R-value per inch of thickness | R-value for thickness indicated |
|---|---|---|
| Batt or blanket | ||
| Fiberglass | 3.3 | |
| Rock wool | 3.3 | |
| Rigid boards | ||
| Cellular glass | 2.5 | |
| Polystyrene, molded | 3.6 | |
| Polystyrene, extruded | 5.0 | |
| Polyurethane, expanded | 6.2 | |
| Polyisocyanurate | 7.2 | |
| Perlite, expanded | 2.6 | |
| Foamed in place | ||
| Polyurethane | 6.2 | |
| Spray | ||
| Cellulose wall spray | 3.7 | |
| Loose fill | ||
| Cellulose | 3.7 | |
| Perlite | 2.7 | |
| Vermiculite | 2.1 | |
| Cast concrete | ||
| Insulating concrete | 1.1 | |
| Concrete, masonry units and materials | ||
| Common brick | 0.20 | |
| Face brick | 0.11 | |
| 8 inches thick sand and gravel aggregate concrete block | 1.11 | |
| 8 inches thick lightweight aggregate concrete block | 2.00 | |
| Sand and gravel aggregate concrete | 0.08 | |
| Lightweight aggregate concrete | 0.60 | |
| Cement mortar | 0.20 | |
| Stucco | 0.20 | |
| Granite and marble | 0.05 | |
| Sandstone | 0.08 | |
| Wood | ||
| Hardwoods | 0.91 | |
| Softwoods (fir, pine, etc.) | 1.25 | |
| Plywood | 1.25 | |
| Particleboard 5/8 inch | 0.82 | |
| Wood fiberboard | 2.00 | |
| Roofing materials | ||
| Built-up roofing 3/8 inch | 0.33 | |
| Asphalt shingles | 0.44 | |
| Asphalt roll roofing | 0.15 | |
| Wood shingles | 0.94 | |
| Fiberglass shingles | 0.44 | |
| Siding materials | ||
| Wood bevel siding | 0.81 | |
| Wood shingles | 0.87 | |
| Vinyl siding | 1.00 | |
| Aluminum siding | 0.61 | |
| Interior wall coverings | ||
| Cement Plaster (sand aggregate) | 0.20 | |
| Gypsum plaster (lightweight aggregate) | 0.67 | |
| Gypsum wallboard 1/2 inch | 0.45 | |
| Flooring | ||
| Carpet and pad | 1.50 | |
| Hardwood 25/32 inch | 0.71 | |
| Terrazzo 1 inch | 0.08 | |
| Tile (linoleum, vinyl) | 0.05 | |
The interior design of your home offers great potential for energy management. The first steps should include a thorough program of caulking, weatherstripping, insulating and managing the thermostat. Many factors, including air temperature and relative humidity, contribute to heat loss from the body and environment and thus affect our physical comfort. Psychological comfort refers to your personal response to colors, textures, furnishings, lighting and physical stimuli.
For the greatest energy efficiency, consider the following suggestions when planning your house:
Make use of an open floor plan
The floor plan and room placement can have a large impact on the energy efficiency and comfort level of the house. An open plan is desirable for the main living areas to allow good heat and light distribution and simplified heat and air circulation.
Close doors and vents on infrequently used areas such as bedrooms and bathrooms when these rooms are not in use; individual room thermostats allow for zoned heat control with some heating systems. Remember to consult a heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) manufacturer or installer before setting back your heat pump.
Employ room placement as an energy-management technique
Locations of different rooms in the house should be considered when evaluating different floor plans. Areas used frequently during daylight hours should be placed on the south; infrequently used spaces and those requiring little or no heat are best on the north. Rooms in which heat is generated, such as kitchens and laundry areas, should also be located on the north or east.
Apply design elements to influence physical and psychological comfort
Use colors that contain reds or yellows to warm rooms on the north side of the house. Colors that contain blue may cool rooms exposed to strong south or west sun. The reflectance value of a color will influence the amount of artificial light required. Light colors and shiny surfaces reflect more light than darker colors and dull surfaces. Smooth surfaces look and feel cool; textured surfaces, which trap pockets of air, contribute to warmth. Large patterns make the room seem warm; smaller patterns -- or no patterns -- will make a room appear larger and cooler.
Include adequate space for recycled goods
Recycling saves energy; if you are building or remodeling, include an area to hold materials to be recycled.
Incorporate floor coverings that add both insulative value and the desired feelings of warmth
Floor coverings that are medium to light in color will have a higher light reflectance than dark colors, thus saving on the amount of artificial light needed.
Dark colors also fade more noticeably than light colors in areas where direct sunlight enters the home. A carpeted floor has a higher R-value than a hard-surface floor covering. Area rugs add to a feeling of warmth. In the summer months, roll up area rugs or choose those with lighter colors.
Provide appropriate window treatment
Consider an insulating window treatment wherever possible, especially on larger areas of glass and north-facing windows.
Insulating roman shades and pop-in panels should have a minimum added value of R-5 in order to make the treatment worth your time and expense. A closed-top cornice keeps heated air from circulating around the glass and reaching the room as cooled air.
Install inside storm windows over a single pane of glass and save 50 percent of heating losses through the window. Summer shading of windows is needed.
By using a tight-fitting roller shade or roman shade, a savings on cooling costs can be achieved. By installing solar screens or sputtered films, solar gain into the home can be greatly reduced. Mini-blinds are effective for light control but may not reduce solar gain.
Take advantage of lighting strategies for energy efficiency, design and safety
Fluorescent lighting is three to five times more efficient than incandescent. Replace incandescent lights in lamps with compact fluorescent lights and use compact fluorescent lighting in the kitchen, bathroom, laundry, workshop and family areas of the home.
Take advantage of direct lighting in areas where specific tasks are performed. Solid-state, as opposed to rheostat-type, dimmer switches allow you to adjust lighting to suit the activity in a room and extend the life of the bulb.
Keep light fixtures clean and free of dust to receive maximum illumination.
Contribute to feelings of warmth or coolness through the design and arrangement of furnishings
Some furnishings improve physical comfort in winter; closed designs, such as wing chairs and skirted pieces, help retain heat, as do textured fabrics. In summer, heat loss is promoted in sofas and chairs with open styling and furnishings with smooth metal or glass surfaces.
Arrangement is also important. Compact furniture arrangements produce physical and psychological warmth. In summer, space pieces further apart to give an open, airy feeling.
You can insulate against winter cold and summer heat by placing a bookcase, hutch, chest of drawer or entertainment center against exterior walls.
The efficiency of central heating, cooling and ventilating systems will have a major effect on your annual energy bills. Routine maintenance is important, as is management of thermostats and operating according to manufacturers' recommendations.
Your system should:
Meet ventilation standards
Ventilation is necessary in the kitchen, bath and laundry areas to remove excess moisture, odor and smoke. Make sure the ventilators are weatherstripped and have positive closure shutters to decrease backdrafts of cold air in the house. Use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans only when needed.
Make sure the heating and cooling systems are the right size for your home
Heat loss and heat gain of each room must be determined to select the most appropriate heating and cooling equipment.
Make sure your mechanical equipment installer calculates the energy loads for your home using industry accepted standards; rules of thumb used in the past are not appropriate for today's energy-efficient homes.
Oversized systems contribute to increased energy usage, poor humidity control and higher initial equipment costs.
Have ducts and pipes located in the conditioned spaces of a home
Tightly seal ducts and pipes located in conditioned spaces of the home. If they pass through unconditioned spaces, the ducts and pipes should be tightly sealed and insulated to an R-19 value.
Have automatic setback thermostats
Choose the automatic setback thermostats designed for your system. They automatically lower or raise home temperatures around your living schedules. Contact a local HVAC contractor or equipment manufacturer before using temperature setbacks with a heat pump system.
Incorporate a high-efficiency heating system
Many high-efficiency oil and gas heating systems have rating guidelines that have been developed by the federal government. The efficiency rating for a furnace and boiler is termed Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE). An efficient oil or gas heating system should have an AFUE of 80 percent or higher and include a source of outside combustion air.Heat pumps both heat and cool your home. They are rated separately on their heating and cooling efficiency. A Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) rating is assigned to measure heating efficiency.
A HSPF rating of 9 is the preferred minimum.
A Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) rating measures a heat pump's cooling efficiency. The higher the SEER, the more expensive the unit and the more efficient it is at cooling. Select a model with a SEER rating of 11 or greater.
Calculate savings over a lifetime.
Have a higher efficiency air conditioning system
Central air conditioning units also have SEER ratings. Look for these when evaluating your home's air conditioning system. As mentioned, SEER ratings of 11 or greater are preferred; units with lower SEER ratings, older and used air conditioners, may cost less at purchase but will have higher operating costs. Window units permit zoned cooling and may be an efficient alternative to a central unit.
Include a high-efficiency water heater
Water heaters are major energy users. Choose a high-efficiency unit, and base the unit size on the number of people in your family.
Smaller capacity units installed close to the point of usage are often more cost effective. To reduce costs, try a thermostat setting of 140 degrees Fahrenheit if you have a dishwasher, and 120 degrees Fahrenheit if not.
Selecting dishwashers with self-contained water preheaters and maintaining 120-degree F water temperatures may be cost-effective. Use lower temperatures to avoid burns when there are young children and elderly residents. When replacing, choose an energy-efficient model. Wrap older water heaters and hot water pipes with insulation to reduce losses.
Locate plumbing to avoid long runs that can increase heat losses
Locate bathrooms, kitchens and other water-using areas back-to-back for greater efficiency.
Employ special devices or features to increase the efficiency of your fireplace
Most fireplaces -- even those equipped with a device intended to save heat -- are at best an aesthetic pleasure rather than a serious medium for home heating.
A fireplace user's first move should be to reduce the loss of already-heated room air up the chimney. A set of tight-fitting doors will help to control heat loss.
To achieve the highest efficiency, a fireplace should have a pipe through the outside wall to bring air into the fireplace for combustion; a minimum 3-inch pipe should be installed.
Fireplaces are not an efficient heat source; under some circumstances they are a negative source because they lose more heat than they create. At best, they operate at 25 percent efficiency. A recommended alternative is a masonry wood stove, which is 90 percent efficient.
Use a wood stove for supplemental heat
Choose a high-efficiency model that uses outside combustion air. For other types of wood stoves, consult the manufacturer's guidelines for combustion air intake. High-efficiency models have an efficiency of 60 percent if they are of good quality and operated well. Pellet stoves burn recycled waste products such as corn, walnut hulls and processed sawdust. You must consider the management and potential fire hazard.
Home improvements may or may not increase the resale value of a home. This is true of energy-conserving measures as well as other improvements. The quality of the workmanship, the cost of the improvement and the price of the home in relation to others in the neighborhood will influence the return on the investment in the house.
Remodeling for energy efficiency provides a return on investment in lower fuel bills, increased personal comfort and possibly a higher sales price for a home that is less costly to heat and cool. The cost of the energy improvements is influenced by the homeowner's ability to do the work rather than hire it done.
Homeowners can realize a quick rate of return with minor energy upgrade projects such as caulking, weatherstripping, replacing broken glass, and insulating the water heater and easy-to-reach spaces such as attics and basement ceilings. Energy retrofits can have a specific effect or recovery on resale.
A remodeling and maintenance plan should:
Include energy improvements such as improved attic and wall insulation, insulated doors, storm windows and weatherstripping
All are relatively low-cost improvements that will provide an immediate return. Some products, such as replacement windows and replacement siding, may improve the appearance of your home but not the energy performance.
Include the possibility of add-on systems for heating, cooling and hot water systems
Electrical service should be sized to carry the additional load. Review the existing system's capacity to serve new space. If the area is well-insulated, the current heating system may be sufficient. If not, the add-on system should have a separate thermostat control. If an add-on hot water system is needed, point-of-use water heaters may be preferred to long plumbing runs.
Consider cost effectiveness
For example, adding a third pane of glass to a window with two glazings or increasing the R-value in the attic may not provide a reasonable return on your investment. To determine return on investment, divide the cost of the project by the estimated first year energy savings.
Improvements that pay for themselves in seven years or fewer are considered cost effective. Measures that are cost effective include those that reduce infiltration.
A common theme among energy efficient housing recommendations is an emphasis on structural components. Yet it is not structures that use energy, but people. Individuals and families control a significant portion of energy used. Their energy-management decisions will vary according to family needs, family composition, finances, size, lifestyle, comfort levels and technical capabilities.
Studies indicate that energy consumption in identical houses may vary by as much as a factor of two, depending solely upon the attitudes, choices and behaviors of their occupants.
Thermostat setting is the best predictor of energy use within groups of identical houses. Existing houses should be retrofitted to reduce air infiltration and bring R-values up to a level at which occupants are comfortable without high thermostat settings. The lifestyle of the occupant influences the energy use of the house, but desired comfort levels influence your thermostat setting.
For the greatest efficiency consider the following suggestions when planning your house:
Include prescribed thermostat setbacks for both the heating and cooling seasons
For every degree the thermostat is adjusted, you can save $1 to $3 out of every $100 spent on heating and cooling costs. Winter settings during the day should be 68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit; at night, set them back 5 to 10 degrees lower than the normal comfort setting and, while away, at 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Take proper precautions to see that plumbing will not freeze. Set your air conditioner at 78 degrees Fahrenheit and, while away, 5 to 7 degrees higher. Remember to consult an HVAC manufacturer or installer before setting back your heat pump.
Make use of techniques to cut air infiltration
Air infiltration is unwanted movement of air in or out of a building. For example, during the winter when heat is lost from a building, the furnace must warm cooled air back to a comfortable temperature.
Caulking and weatherstripping help reduce energy losses caused by infiltration. One source of air infiltration often overlooked is electrical outlets on interior and exterior walls. You can reduce infiltration with outlet gaskets. Plug unused sockets with plastic inserts.
Protect indoor air quality
Well-sealed, highly-insulated homes may have an air change of less than 0.5 per hour and should make provisions for introducing fresh air and removing moisture and household pollutants. Use an air-to-air heat exchanger or actively manage the vents and exhaust fans in your home.
Take advantage of natural forces such as sunshine and breezes
In the winter, sunshine provides desirable heat and light. Be willing to follow the sun. During winter, open south window treatments during the six best sunny hours. Close north window treatments unless there is morning or evening sun. Plant windbreaks to cut north winds. In summer, control south and west sun with awnings, shutters, solar screens or sputtered films.
Use breezes for cooling during the warm season
Open windows in evening and close during mid-day. Use window and whole-house fans for cooling when outside temperature is below house temperature and when the humidity is low.
Include measures to reduce hot water heating costs
Reduce the amount of hot water used by repairing leaky faucets, using flow-restricting devices and using water no hotter than necessary for adequate soil removal and sanitation. Consult the care tags on clothing and fabrics for correct temperature settings.
Consider your family's activity patterns
Locate furnishings for passive activities, such as reading, studying, watching television or talking, near heat sources and away from windows and cold outside walls.
Locate furnishings for active functions, such as eating, working or playing, away from direct heat sources.
Include energy-wise dressing
During the winter, wear layers of clothing. During the summer, wear loose-fitting, light-weight, natural fabric garments to cut down on the need for fans and air conditioning.
Involve your whole family in a home energy-management program
Home energy costs are directly related to the size and tightness of the home, the difference between the conditioned (inside) and the unconditioned (outside) environment, insulation levels and your commitment to energy management.
Table 2
Home energy management checklist
After reading this publication, use this checklist to assess how energy efficient your home is. Whether you are buying, remodeling, building or renting, this checklist can help you spot elements of design and construction that could be costly to you in the long run.
| Site and orientation | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Does the lot allow the house to run east and west? | ||
| 2. Is the house plan long, thin and rectangular? | ||
| 3. Is the house shaded? | ||
| 4. Does the landscaping allow for beauty and function? | ||
| 5. Are the outdoor lighting devices energy efficient? | ||
| Exterior shell design | Yes | No |
| 6. Does the building shape lend itself to energy-efficient conditioning? | ||
| 7. Does the exterior wall incorporate energy-efficient construction? | ||
| 8. Does construction meet the R-value recommendations for Missouri? | ||
| 9. Are vapor barriers optimally placed? | ||
| 10. Is the foundation properly and adequately insulated? | ||
| 11. Are adequate windows included for light, ventilation and view? | ||
| 12. Are windows energy-efficient? | ||
| 13. Are exterior shading devices used (awnings, eaves, overhangs, etc.)? | ||
| 14. Are exterior doors energy-efficient? | ||
| 15. Is the attic properly and adequately insulated? | ||
| 16. Does the overhang meet Missouri recommendations? | ||
| 17. Are exterior finishes non-energy intensive? | ||
| Interior design | Yes | No |
| 18. Are you using an open floor plan for main living areas? | ||
| 19. Is room placement part of your energy-management plan? | ||
| 20. Do design elements contribute to physical and psychological comfort? | ||
| 21. Is there adequate space for recycled goods? | ||
| 22. Do floor coverings have insulative value and the feeling of warmth? | ||
| 23. Do window treatments contribute to energy efficiency? | ||
| 24. Are lighting strategies energy efficient and safe? | ||
| 25. Are furnishings arranged so that they contribute to feelings of warmth and coolness? | ||
| Environmental controls | Yes | No |
| 26. Do heating, cooling and ventilation systems meet ventilation standards? | ||
| 27. Are heating and cooling systems the proper size for your home? | ||
| 28. Once a year, do you clean and inspect all central heating equipment (e.g., furnaces, boilers, etc.)? | ||
| 29. Are ducts and pipes located in conditioned spaces of the home? | ||
| 30. Do you have an automatic setback thermostat? | ||
| 31. Is the heating system rated as high-efficiency? | ||
| 32. Is the air conditioning system rated as high-efficiency? | ||
| 33. Is the water heater rated as high-efficiency? | ||
| 34. Is plumbing located to avoid long runs? | ||
| 35. Is the fireplace equipped to reduce heat loss? | ||
| 36. Is supplemental heating used? | ||
| 37. Is a wood stove used for supplemental heat? | ||
| 38. During winter, are window air-conditioning units covered to prevent cold air from entering through vents? | ||
| Remodeling and maintenance | Yes | No |
| 39. While remodeling, are you including these energy improvements? | ||
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| 40. Are you including the possibility of add-on systems for heating, cooling and water heating? | ||
| 41. Have you considered cost effectiveness of each improvement? | ||
| Lifestyle and behavior | Yes | No |
| 42. Did you include a prescribed thermostat setting for heating and cooling seasons? | ||
| 43. Are you making use of techniques to cut air infiltration? | ||
| 44. Do you use methods to protect indoor air quality? | ||
| 45. Do you use natural forces, such as breezes and sunshine? | ||
| 46. Are you taking measures to reduce hot water heating costs? | ||
| 47. Are you considering your family's activity patterns when locating furnishings? | ||
| 48. Do you and your family dress energy-wise? | ||
| 49. Is the entire family involved in your energy-management program? |
GH5983, reviewed August 1998