Bates County
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Ten Easy Houseplants for Problem Places
Some houseplants have specific needs that require constant care and attention. But thankfully, there are some other plants that have a wider range of adaptability, and can survive where many others may not.
If it is a challenge for you to grow houseplants, this week Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension, offers his recommendation for the 10 toughest house plants.
Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra) gets its name from its ability to withstand hardships. It is tolerant of poor light, high temperatures, low humidity and improper watering. It has dark green vertical leaves up to two feet in length.
Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema) has waxy leaves of either solid green or with variegation. It grows a foot or more tall, but may lose lower leaves and eventually become leggy. The top can be cut off and easily rooted in clean, moist sand. It is tolerant of poor light and overwatering.
Snake plant (Sansevieria, mother-in-law’s tongue) has long stiff, upright spear-like leaves. The dwarf bird’s nest form is also very durable. Snake plant grows best in good light, but endures poor light.
Heart-leaf philodendron, along with other philodendrons, is well adapted to home conditions. Although it tolerates moisture fluctuations, it should be kept fairly moist. Position this plant where its vines can be left undisturbed. Since the leaves position themselves for maximum light absorption in poor light conditions, moving these flexible vines cuts down their efficiency and may lead to yellowing.
Devil’s Ivy (scindapsis, Pothos) looks similar to heart-leaf philodendron. Leaves usually contain yellow or cream-colored variegation. It also tolerates fairly poor light and erratic water. In conditions with good light and higher humidity, leaves develop larger and become more colorful.
Corn plant (Dracaena) is one of several dracaenas that make good houseplants. The leaves project from the main stem in all directions, and are shaped similarly to the leaf of corn. Leaves may also be banded, striped or margined with yellow or cream. In poor conditions lower leaves may gradually drop off, but the bare stem is still attractive, giving taller plants a tree-like effect.
Spider plant (Airplane plant, chlororophytum) is excellent as a hanging plant. It has long drooping leaves with white stripes. Small plants are produced on stems after flowering. This occurs after plants are potbound. Runner plants may be left on the old plant, or removed to start new ones. Leaf tips brown under low humidity or other poor growing conditions.
Ponytail palm (Elephant foot, Beaucarnae) stores water in the base of its swollen stem so it works well for people who forget to water. Although it is fairly tolerant of low light, it is a plant that needs bright light to grow and develop well. It has a tuft of long, thin leaves on top of a central stem that swells greatly near the soil line.
Inch plant (Wandering Jew, Tradescantia) refers to several different vining plants with small leaves that are most used in hanging containers. Although they are durable, vines become stringy and occasionally must be renewed by starting new plants from cuttings that root easily.
Burn plant (Aloe vera) is a plant that has gained popularity because of its apparent ability to ease damage to the skin. It is easy to grow, but needs good light. It is a durable novelty.
Christmas
Cactus
Success Possible with a Few Tricks
The Christmas cactus is a popular holiday gift plant. But this plant is also the subject of frequent debate among gardeners with regards to care, maintenance and how to get them to rebloom.
“While they are indeed a cacti, they are actually tropical plants that thrive in conditions that we don’t usually associate with cactus,” said Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist with University of Missouri Extension.
A Christmas cactus will do best in a sunny window away from hot drafts (like heat vents) according to Byers.
“Hot drafts cause the buds to drop. Try to find a window in a cooler room – the blossoms will hold longer,” said Byers.
Watering is another tricky subject with Christmas cactus. While in bloom, Byers recommends watering the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry.
“I use my finger, and stick it into the soil up to my knuckle to check. Just don’t overwater the plant,” said Byers.
When the blossoms drop, the plant begins a resting period. During this time keep the plant on the dry side, but water it if the leaves shrivel. When new growth resumes, Byers says it is time to resume more frequent watering.
What about care during the summer?
“Your Christmas cactus will thrive outdoors, but be sure to place the plant in a shady or semi-shady spot. Then water as needed to keep the plant from shriveling,” said Byers.
The trick to getting this plant to blossom again is long day (12 hours of darkness) and short days.
“This happens naturally in the fall, as long as you don’t keep your plant under artificial light,” said Byers.
He says exposing a Christmas cactus to cool temperatures (50-55°F) will also encourage blossoming, so leave the plant outside as temperatures cool in the fall.
“Bring the plant indoors gradually when temps get too cold, and keep in a cool, bright window. You will be rewarded with a lovely burst of flowers in time for the holidays,” said Byers.
Dealing Safely With Leftover Garden Pesticides
Labels on most household chemical products contain important information on the use and storage of that specific product.
Unfortunately, the storage and disposal information is found toward the end of the pesticide label and most homeowners admit to not reading that information. “We probably get more calls at our gardening hotline about pesticides and how to use them, dispose of them or store them than nearly any other topic,” said
Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.Options for the proper use of leftover pesticides includes: using them if you need them, giving them to a neighbor who will use them properly, or contacting the Household Chemical Collection Center (in Greene County) or other various waste districts for further directions or for safe disposal options.
Proper storage of pesticides requires owners to pay attention to the label.
First, read the label to determine if there are temperature or light requirements that impact the storage of the product. Generally, powders and granules are not affected by low temperatures, but moisture can wreak havoc on these materials.
Even with proper storage, the shelf life of a pesticide can be affected. There may be a variation from two-plus years or more according to Moore.
For more information, contact the nearest University of Missouri Extension Center and request the following guide sheets: IPM1013, "Pesticide Storage," WM6000, "Safe Use, Storage and Disposal of Pesticides," and IPM1012, "Temperature Effects on Storage of Greenhouse, Ornamental and Turf Pesticides."
These same publications can also be found and downloaded from
extension.missouri.edu.
Calendar a Poor
Guide for Mulching Plants
People who follow the calendar as a guide to mulching perennial plants might be making a big mistake, according to Patrick Byers, a horticulture specialist for University of Missouri Extension.
Fall Missouri temperatures have remained well above average, delaying the natural dormancy process of most plants.
"Most folks have a tendency to think that winter is on its way and they need to protect their plants from the cold weather," Byers said. "But remember, the purpose of mulching plants is to stabilize temperatures and to prevent rapid change around the root systems of most plants."
He says plants mulched prior to soil cool-down and dormancy actually experience a delay in dormancy, which sets plants up for a rude shock when air temperatures rapidly decline.
"The best we can hope for is a gradual cooling down of temperatures. What we don't need is a sudden rush of arctic temperatures which comes in over a short period of time and causes major damage to plants before they have an opportunity to become acclimated to temperature changes," Byers said.
Byers says a rule to remember is to delay mulching until night temperatures hit the low- to mid-20s Fahrenheit for a few days to cool the soil temperatures. Mulches can then be applied to stabilize soil temperatures and reduce soil-temperature fluctuations.
"Any material that reduces the variation of soil temperatures around plants can be used as mulch. This is important in areas where there's change in temperatures from week to week. Some of the best choices are hardwood bark mulches or sawdust since they are readily available," said Byers.
Straw works very well for strawberries and many other common perennial plants.
Compost to improve the quality of your garden soil
When you have gardening issues, the root of the difficulty is generally substandard soil. The good news is that whether your garden has a nutrition, moisture or aeration problem, the soil can be repaired with compost, said a University of Missouri Extension horticulture specialist.
Primarily consisting of decomposed organic matter, compost can improve soil drainage, aeration and fertility. Decomposed organic matter improves the texture of heavy clay soils, which allows greater water infiltration and air movement, and allows the soil to be more easily worked. As organic matter breaks down, nutrients become soluble and are available to the plant when the compost is added to the soil. “While unlikely that the nutritional requirements of the garden will be satisfied by adding compost, an application can greatly reduce your fertilizer inputs,” said Marlin Bates.
Waste generated from your household and yard will easily provide enough organic matter to warrant composting. Plant materials, including sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, weeds, sawdust and hedge clippings, are suitable for contribution to the compost bin. Household refuse such as newspaper, vegetable scraps and coffee grounds are also good additions. Items that should not be composted include weeds, seeds, diseased plant material, grease, fat, meat scraps and bones.
To get started, you will need to identify a good location for your compost bin. Preference should be given to convenience. Bates recommended placing your compost bin near a water supply in the shade. “Keeping the bin contents moist will be easier than if it is receiving the heat of the sun,” said Bates. Another tip: Place the compost bin on a well-drained site near the garden to reduce the distance that you have to transport the finished compost.
Once an adequate site is selected, decide what kind of structure to use, if any at all. You can simply create a heap of compost on the ground without any confinement, though this method is usually more unsightly. Minimum dimensions for this method should be 5 feet-by-5-feet-by-3 feet. Alternatively, there are several types of bins that can be bought or made. An important consideration is the ease with which you can turn the pile. The bin should be constructed in a way that allows the sides to be easily removed or should be built with only three permanent sides. A good compost bin will allow air to flow freely within the pile, but restrict rapid moisture loss. Usually this can be achieved by creating a balance of open and closed spaces in the structure.
The length of time needed to completely decompose the materials in your compost bin will depend on several factors. Different sources of composting material decompose at different rates. Grass clippings, for instance, decompose more quickly than woody stems. Also, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will impact the rate of decomposition. Managing this ratio is critical in maximizing the capabilities of the microorganisms that hasten the decomposing process. Other factors that affect how long it will take for the compost to be ready include aeration, moisture and temperature.
Now is the perfect time to start composting. With the organic materials you will accumulate this summer and fall, you should have a quality compost to enrich your garden next spring.
MU Extension guide, “Making and Using Compost” (G6956), is available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06956.htm.
Don't Forget Plants When Making Vacation Plans
Amid the excitement of planning for and taking a summer vacation, many people neglect to have someone look after their indoor and outdoor plants during their absence.
“If you are going to be away from home for more than a week, you may return to find substantial damage has occurred to plants left unattended. The ideal solution is to ask a friend who is knowledgeable about plants to check on your plants regularly and water them when necessary,” said Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Before you leave, Byers recommends moving indoor plants away from sunny, bright windows, so they will use water less rapidly.
“This doesn't mean putting them in a dark room. They still need bright, indirect light to stay healthy while you're gone,” said Byers. “Then right before leaving on your trip, thoroughly water all of your indoor plants. Even allow some water to stand in the saucers beneath the plants' containers, something you normally would not do.”
These changes should enable indoor plants to survive during your absence. However, plants in containers outside need to be watered almost every day.
“Place all of your outdoor container plants, including any hanging baskets, in a shady location near the northern side of a building or under the protective cover of a large shade tree or covered patio. Group plants fairly close together since this, along with the shady location, will help slow water loss,” Byers said.
If a person can't find someone to water for them, inexpensive water timers, used in conjunction with sprinklers, can work well, especially if the plants are together in a water grouping.
If you have questions about your garden, lawn, soil or plants, contact the nearest University of Missouri Extension center. If you need additional gardening advice, please contact the Master Gardener Hotline, (417) 862-9284.
Four Requirements Help Control Algae in Water Gardens
Algae problems in water gardens are generally caused by the sun and excess nutrients in pond water according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension."Ponds that are properly balanced with the correct ratio of plants, fish and other water critters, generally do not have significant algae problems," said Moore.
Four specific requirements are
important to help control algae conditions.
S Water
pH in excess of 8.5 should be treated to make it more acidic.
S Too many fish in the pond can cause excessive nutrients from waste
S
Lack of plants in the pond. The plants are a natural filter source
by removing excess nutrients from the water.
S
Poor filtration. As a general recommendation, Siler says to stock
six goldfish or koi (four to six inches in size) and one water lily
for each square yard of the pool. "You might also try draining the
pond and adding new water. Another option may be adding aquatic
plants to allow as much as 50 percent of the water surface to be
covered with plants," said Moore.
The final, and most radical method of controlling algae in ponds, is the use of an aquatic herbicide. Chelated copper compounds are less toxic than elemental copper sulfate."Proper management of your system is the best method of maintaining and controlling algae blooms in ponds, and copper herbicides should be used only as the last resort," said Moore.
Elderly, disabled persons can try out virtual gardening before taking on the real thing
As spring approaches, elderly
or disabled gardeners may want to try a hand at virtual gardening
before doing the real thing. "Elderly or persons with
disabilities should not have to give up gardening if it is something
they really like," said Karen Funkenbusch, University of Missouri
specialist in working with disabled persons. "There are different
levels of gardening that may provide the same level of
satisfaction."
Helpful hints for the elderly
or disabled persons are available on a website:
https://fsb.missouri.edu/gardenweb/.
The site
—Gardens for Every Body- includes a tool shed showing ergonomic and enabling garden tools. Enabling tools, designed for disabled gardeners, require less energy to use and help keep proper body alignment, she said. Aids feature pistol grips, telescopic tools and tools fitted with braces.In addition to tools, the site gives tips on how to safely transport tools to work in a garden. Tips include using an old golf bag, sled or wagon.
Other site areas demonstrate container gardening using window boxes, hanging baskets or miniature gardens for greater accessibility. Pathways leading to raised beds and trellises also make gardening more accessible. "Gardening is one of the most popular pastimes in the U.S.," Funkenbusch said. "But this hobby can become a chore when someone is faced with physical limitations. We show that with a little creativity disabled people can continue to get the benefits from their gardening." Links to other websites are provided to help users find sites on gardening for kids with disabilities.
More than 78 million Americans enjoy gardening, according to the National Gardening Association. "Gardening can enrich the life of senior gardeners in many ways, physically, mentally and spiritually," said Funkenbusch, who coordinates the MU federally-funded AgrAbility program helping families with disabilities.
An array of special ergonomic tools with fist or trigger grips are available on the market or in many cases can be made cheaply at home. For example, bicycle grips or insulation wrap can make a hand fork or trowel easier to use. Some tools come with wrist supports fitted to them, she said. Lengthening the handle of tools such as rakes or hoes can extend reach. A simple way to do this is using poly pipe (heat at 325 degrees for five minutes and fit it to the tool).
Use lighter weight tools. Paint tools a bright color so they can be easily located. Use a stool, chair or bench to avoid constant stooping and squatting. For those able to get down on the ground, it’s good to wear kneepads. A cart or bucket comes in handy for carrying tools. For those in a wheelchair, tying a hose to the chair handle with wire or cord can serve as a watering can.
"The key is to adapt your gardening to your own physical capabilities," she said.
Fall Gardening Can Be a Rewarding
Experience
Some of the best quality garden
vegetables are produced and harvested during the fall season when warm,
sunny days are followed by cool, humid nights. The challenge with fall
vegetable production is seeding or transplanting a crop in high
temperatures and then harvesting when temperatures are cooler, but not
freezing. “August brings with it high soil temperatures, high light
intensity and rapid soil drying. These factors present real problems
with getting a uniform stand of plants,” said Gaylord Moore,
horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Moore recommends applying a light layer of mulch over
each row of newly planted seeds to help retain moisture. Gardeners can
also try screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row
from intense heat. “This will moderate both soil temperature and soil
moisture but you need to remember to remove coverings after seedling
emerges,” said Moore.
FALL TIPS
According to Moore, seeds left from the
spring, if they have been stored in a cool, dry place, should be good
for planting. “Soak seeds (except beans and peas) overnight before
planting. This will hasten germination and seeding emergence when soil
drying is most critical to plant growth,” said Moore. Seeds that are
stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for several years.
Moore says it is also a good idea to supplement rain fall
with trickle irrigation (soaker hoses) to get early established growth.
WHAT TO PLANT
“Snap beans can be a risky due to frost but fall beans
are so delicious they are worth the chance,” said Moore. Summer squash
can also be established through August in southern Missouri by direct
seeding or transplants. The crop reaches maturity in 40 to 50 days.
According to Moore, cool season vegetables will thrive
in the cooler nights of late summer and fall and are not sensitive to
frost. Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower are generally successful when
planted in the fall. “You might also consider greens such as
lettuce, collards, mustards and turnips which are well adapted for fall
harvest,” said Moore.
Cool nights bring out the rich flavor of spinach and
make it a favorite in fall gardens. “Spinach can also be successfully
mulched through the winter and bounce back for early spring production
the following year,” said Moore.
For more on fall planting dates, visit your local
University of Missouri Extension center and request
Guide 6201, “Vegetable Planting
Calendar.”
Wood
Ash In The Garden Can Be Beneficial
Wood ashes left behind after burning in wood stoves, furnaces, and
fireplaces -- some of the most common home heating systems in the Ozarks
-- can benefit plants and gardens if used sparingly. "Wood ashes have
about one percent phosphate and less than 10 percent potassium, but no
nitrogen. They also contain about 25 percent calcium carbonate, a common
liming material," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
Because wood ash has a fine particle size, it
reacts rapidly and blends completely into the soil. Although small
amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that
of a liming agent."Gardeners often question the value and safety of
using wood ashes in the lawn, gardens and flower beds. Yes, you may use
them but use them sparingly. Adding large amounts can do more harm than
good," said Moore. It is also important when applying ashes to
spread them evenly and avoid dumping them in one area. It is also a good
idea to know your soil pH before adding the ashes (get a soil test).
Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 6.5),
should not be harmed if 30 pounds of ashes per 1,000 square feet of
garden area are applied. Moore also recommends working ashes into the
upper six inches of the soil. "If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher,
find another way of disposing of the ashes," said Moore.
According to Moore, it is also important to never
apply wood ash to acid loving plants like potatoes, rhododendrons,
azaleas or blueberries."
For additional information on fertilizer, contact the University of
Missouri Extension Center in your county and request
G6955, “Improving Lawn and Landscape Soils,” or
MP733, “Lawn and Garden Soil Test Interpretations and Fertilizer
Recommendation Guide.” Those same publications are also
available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/explore.
Seven Tips for
Organic Gardening Success
According to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of
Missouri Extension, it is possible to grow fresh high-quality produce
and vegetables in southwest Missouri with only natural fertilizers and
pesticides. "Growing organic can be successful with
good soils, fertility, proper watering techniques, plant selections and
steps to encourage healthy plants. Monitoring for pests and quick action
to ward off major problems are key considerations," said Moore.
Moore offers seven other tips for organic gardening success:
1.
The success or failure of the
organic approach depends on how gardeners use and prepare organic matter that benefits the soil and plant functions. Animal
manures are excellent sources of organic matter and plant nutrients.
2.
Because plants need proper nourishment, another key is proper soil
nutrients. Soil tests will indicate if there is a need for more nutrients for the garden. It is very
important to be sure the soil pH is acceptable for vegetable gardening.
3.
Select plants that are genetically resistant to diseases. Whenever
available, the use of natural resistant varieties is the best way to reduce diseases.
4.
Planting times. “Planting when soil temperatures are correct for maximum
plant growth is important. It is also important that you never allow a vegetable plant
to get stressed due to lack of available soil moisture," said Moore.
5.
Remember to clean up weeds or other plants that may serve as an
overwintering host plant, along with crop plants that have been diseased.
6.
Avoid the introduction of diseases. In some cases, careful selection of
disease free seed and propagating material helps disease control.
7.
Promote healthy plant growth to deter some insects. Healthy plants are
less susceptible to insect attacks. Natural and biological products are available for
insect control.
According to Moore, good organic growers exhibit great
horticulture knowledge and skills by using sound cultural practices.
However, he says there is little proof organically grown produce is
healthier or of higher quality than that produced inorganically.
“Basically, it is a matter of conviction and choice. But for me, organic
gardening makes good sense. Healthy soil speaks volumes,” said Moore.
Use Care When Side Dressing
Vegetables with Nitrogen
Vegetables and flowers vary in the amounts of nitrogen they need
according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of
Missouri Extension.
“Usually, vegetable crops require most of their nitrogen after they
have made considerable growth or have begun to fruit. Too much
nitrogen before this time will delay maturity and reduce flowering
and yields,” said Moore.
Plants get nitrogen from three major sources: the breakdown of
organic matter, yearly maintenance application of fertilizer or the
nitrogen side dressings.
“Often, the plant needs additional nitrogen by side dressing to
complete fruiting and growth and to keep the plant vigorous and
healthy,” said Moore.
However, various plants or crops have different recommended nitrogen
side dressings and the timing of the side dressing is very
important.
“The nitrogen with most garden fertilizers is best utilized with
frequent light applications,” said Moore.
For example, tomatoes respond best to about three different side
dressings. The first application should be one to two weeks before
the first tomato ripens, then two weeks after picking the first ripe
tomato, and again, one month later.
About one-third of a pound of actual nitrogen is required for each
100-foot row. For example, ammonium nitrate is 33 percent nitrogen.
It would take about 1 pound of the ammonium nitrate to give the
required amount for a 100-foot row of tomatoes.
“You may figure other high nitrogen type fertilizers to apply based
upon the actual nitrogen percentage. Other forms of nitrogen such as
urea, calcium nitrate and ammonium sulfate may be used on an
equivalent nitrogen basis,” said Moore.
Other crops
that require nitrogen side dressing include: cucumber and cantaloupe
about one week after blossoming begins, and again three weeks later;
sweet corn, when plants are eight to 10 inches tall and again one week
after tassels appear; potatoes, but only after the tuber formation
starts.
Plant Heat and Hardiness Zone Maps
Assist Gardeners
Environmental factors like heat, compacted soils, cold temperatures and various pest problems, make growing landscape plants in the Missouri a real challenge.
However, there is hope, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
"Minimizing these environmental factors by knowing the specific requirements of plants in our area is helpful. Also, doing your homework before purchasing plants will increase your plant successes," said Moore.
For example, most gardeners should become familiar with the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s "Cold Hardiness Zone Map."
First published in 1960, this map is based on average annual minimum temperatures recorded throughout North America.
"By using the map to find the zone where you live, you can determine which plants will 'winter over' in your garden because they can withstand these temperatures," said Moore.
The hardiness zone ranges from zone 1, which is Fairbanks, Alaska to zone 11, Honolulu, Hawaii.
Most of the plant zone for southwest Missouri is 6-A (average minimal temperature of -5 to -10 degrees). The Branson area is rated as 6-B (average minimal temperature of 0 to -5 degrees).
"When plants are purchased from your local nursery, plants should not be available that are not hardy to your area unless special precautions are indicated. In most cases attached plant labels will indicate the zone most suitable for your plants," said Moore.
For specific information on plant hardiness zones and a listing of plants adaptable to the various zones visit this website: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushmap.html.
Another useful map, besides the USDA "Plant Hardiness Zone Map" is the "American Horticultural Society Plant Heat-Zone Map." This map helps gardeners determine a plant’s likelihood for survival from extremes in temperatures.
This 12-zone map indicates the average number of days each year that a region experiences “heat days.”
According to Moore, “heat days” are those days with temperatures over 86 degrees, the point at which plants experience damage to cellular proteins.
Southwest Missouri’s heat zone is seven because this area has an average of 61 to 90 days with temperatures above 86 degrees.
"When used in conjunction with the Plant Hardiness Zone Map, consumers can select plants that may do well in their gardens throughout the year," said Moore. For more information about the heat zone map, visit: http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_map.htm.
"Many environmental and plant growing factors account for a
healthy and productive plant. Again, the more tools and knowledge
you have to make better management and gardening decisions, greater
satisfaction and more beautiful plants should be the result,"
said Moore.(back
to top)
Greenhouses
for Homeowners and Gardeners
For serious gardeners interested in
prolonging the growing season, constructing a home greenhouse can be
the answer according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
"A greenhouse can provide a void when the weather will not allow outdoor activity. It may also answer questions about starting a commercial greenhouse business without taking a large financial risk," said Moore.
There are several questions that need to be answered before construction begins, including whether you plan to purchase or build the greenhouse and what type of heating, cooling and plant lighting systems you plan to install.
"You need to consider where the greenhouse should be located, your budget, how much time the greenhouse will demand, the proper steps to construction (including building permits) and what type of foundations and utilities are needed for the ongoing operation," said Moore.
How much would a 10 x 12 greenhouse cost? Depending on the construction materials used and whether or not you purchase a kit, prices can range from $4 to $50 per square foot.
"Contractors for construction will add significantly to the costs, plus site preparation and amenities such as heating and cooling systems and benches," said Moore.
Another cost is the greenhouse coverings, which may consist of poly film plastics, fiberglass reinforced plastics, polycarbonate glazing, acrylics, single tempered glass or double-wall tempered glass.
"For gardeners on a budget, I recommend using the poly film plastics or greenhouse plastics. The greenhouse plastics have a life span of two to four years before replacement. Greenhouse plastics also have a greater insulating factor," said Moore.
Aesthetics should also be considered in the construction and style of a greenhouse. The style should match the architecture of your home. And, for aesthetic purposes, freestanding greenhouses should be located parallel to the house and any accessory buildings.
"Survey results show that greenhouses can enhance the value of your property. To do so, they have to look like they belong there," said Moore.
Landscaping the immediate area around the greenhouse can also have an impact on aesthetics.
"Gardens, border plantings, or beds can do a lot to improve appearance and help blend the greenhouse into the area. But, be careful not to plant shrubs or trees that will create shade on the greenhouse," said Moore.
For helping with planning a greenhouse, Moore recommends purchasing NRAES - 137, "Greenhouses for Homeowners and Gardeners" through your local University of Missouri Extension Center for $25 (plus postage and handling).(back to top)
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Bates County University of Missouri Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 05/26/09 |
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