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Research Shows New Bermudagrass Treatment Not Effective for Control Bermudagrass is the scourge of many Missouri yards. It sends many homeowners in search of an easy, quick method of killing it. And, it also sends many homeowners back to the couch in despair when it keeps coming back, even after treatment. That is why any product that promises to control Bermudagrass gets attention and why many University of Missouri Extension offices have been getting questions about this new product. Q: A co-worker told
me about a new product from Bayer called “Bermudagrass
Control of Lawns.” It is advertised as “a new exclusive
formula that controls the growth of undesirable Bermuda
grass, crabgrass and other grassy weeds in cool season turf
types.” The
product is designed especially for cool season lawns
(fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass) but it is
expensive ($35 per bottle). Does it work? I’d rather find
out now before spending money on it and being disappointed
like I have been in the past with other promised cures? –
J.C. in Republic, Mo. A: The product you are referring to contains fenoxaprop –p-ethyl which is Acclaim Extra by trade name. This product’s label has only a suppression label for common Bermudagrass – nothing about control. This product will only set it back a little and weaken it, thinking that winter kill may do it in if it goes into the winter in a weakened state. We have seen repeat applications of Acclaim Extra (24 fl oz/A) tank mixed with Turflon Ester (24 fl oz/A) giving some control (up to 60 percent) in the first season (three applications 30 days apart). But if you do not follow up with these applications in a second season, the bermudagrass comes back. This gets far more expensive than most wish to pay. Ornamec or Fusilade II is also labeled for Bermuda control, but these products can only be used in tall fescue or zoysiagrass. Control here is not consistent, but may be our best bet right now. There may be hope – some research out east is showing control in a three way tank mix of Acclaim extra + Turflon Ester + Tenacity (mesotrione). This is not registered yet. HOW TO CONTROL Control of Bermudagrass in a lawn is possible but it takes a lot of work, and proper timing, according to Pat Byers, horticulture specialist with MU Extension. August is a good time to start killing out Bermudagrass so new grass can be planted in the fall. “Make several applications of Roundup through the summer, then re-seed or re-sod in the early fall. Only make additional applications if the Bermuda begins to green up again,” said Byers. Repeat applications, even in following years, may be necessary to keep the Bermudagrass at bay. Making the Correct Grass Selections for Your Lawn According to Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension, there are several factors that should be considered when selecting a turfgrass species for establishing a new lawn or renovating an existing one this fall. “First, you need to consider what the turf will be used for. Is it being planted strictly for aesthetic purposes, or will it be played on heavily or frequently?” said Byers. “You also need to consider whether the turf will receive a high level of maintenance, or whether it will receive only minimal amounts of water and fertilizer, and little or no pest control.” Byers also recommends that homeowners consider what will be the desired level of visual quality or playability, whether the lawn area is sunny or shady and whether or not the site has a history of water problems or specific pest problems. With those factors in mind, Byers says it is normally best to blend more than one species together instead of just planting only one species of grass. “Blending a couple of different species of grasses together can compliment your turf. For example, 10 percent bluegrass blended with tall turf fescue will help fill in thin spots if they should occur in your predominant fescue lawn. Bluegrass has rhizomes which fill weak spots much quicker than the fescue,” said Byers. According to Byers, there is also an advantage to planting more than one variety of grass within the same species selection. “Blending three or four different grass varieties provides greater disease resistance, vigor and overall turf performance. One variety may be highly resistant to one disease whereas another may be susceptible,” said Byers. For information on renovating your lawn, visit your local University of Missouri Extension center and request Guide 6700, “Cool Season Grasses, Establishing and Renovation.” Adequate soil moisture and warmer weather are causing lawns to grow a little faster than most people probably would like them to right now. “Just because lawns are doing well now does not mean the grass will continue to be healthy,” cautioned a University of Missouri Extension agronomy specialist. As the season progresses, turfgrass diseases - the most costly causes of injury and death to lawns - will begin to appear. “Homeowners often neglect to manage these diseases until they become visible and then try to make a rapid diagnosis and apply a fungicide,” said Travis Harper. “In some instances this will work, but in others it may be too late. Maintaining a healthy, disease-free lawn should begin right now.” The first step in maintaining a healthy, disease-free lawn is proper soil fertilization. Soils with low nitrogen levels increase turfgrass susceptibility to diseases such as dollar spot and red thread. On the other hand, nitrogen levels that are too high increase the susceptibility of cool-season grasses to leaf spot, Rhizoctonia brown patch and Pythium blight. Low potassium levels in the soil reduce turfgrass tolerance to high temperatures and drought stress, which can increase the potential of diseases such as summer patch. Low pH is often associated with diseases such as brown patch as well. How do you know for sure whether your pH and nutrient levels are too high or too low? Have your soil tested at your local MU Extension Center. Mowing height and frequency also affect the chances of contracting turfgrass diseases. Optimal cutting heights for cool-season grasses range from 2.5 to 4.0 inches, depending on the species. Warm-season grasses can range between 1 and 2 inches. Cutting grass at a height that is lower than these recommended ranges increases the likelihood of disease. Frequency of cut should be determined by the "one-third rule" of mowing: No more than one-third of the leaf growth should be removed during a single mowing. “Mowing creates wounds on the grass blades through which fungi can enter,” said Harper. “Leaf cuts made by a sharp mower blade are cleaner and heal faster than the tearing and shredding caused by a dull mower blade. Make sure to keep your mower blades sharp.” Nearly all turfgrass diseases are more likely to occur when lawns are overwatered. Water lawns only when they show signs of needing water. Allow cool-season grasses to have periods of drying (near wilting) to disrupt the growth cycle of fungi favored by excess water. Lawns should be watered only in the early morning hours. Lawns watered in the evening remain wet throughout the night, which encourages the development of diseases. Even if all of these techniques are followed, development of turfgrass diseases may be unavoidable. “This does not necessarily mean that a fungicide needs to be applied,” said Harper. “Grasses can naturally recover from some diseases when environmental conditions favor growth of the turfgrass.” In some situations, however, it may be necessary to use a fungicide to suppress diseases until favorable environmental conditions return. The regular use of these cultural practices, along with the occasional use of fungicides, will ensure your lawn stays healthy all year long. MU Extension guide, “Turfgrass Disease Control” (G6756), is available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06756.htm. Homeowners can spare themselves a sore back and the drudgery of raking fall leaves by mowing the leaves into their lawns. Studies show that leaves mowed into lawns had no effect on turf quality or color, thatch build-up, soil pH or nutrient availability, weed infestation or diseases, said James Quinn, University of Missouri Extension horticulturalist. “Maintaining a regular fall mowing schedule can save time, effort and reduce the volume of yard waste,” he said. In Missouri, leaves typically fall over several months. At the end of a hot, dry summer, a number of trees, such as cottonwoods, lose quite a few leaves in late August and September to conserve moisture. Ash and maple trees shed leaves in October and oaks in November. Mow before the layer of leaves pile too high. More than 3 to 4 inches of leaves are probably too much. Don’t let a dense layer of leaves lie on the turf too long. More than four days is not advised. Raking may be needed during an extended rainy spell, Quinn said. Mow slowly; leaves will chop up better. Normal speed or slightly slower mowing will work. Mulching mowers are preferred. A sharp mower blade is more effective. Blades may be dull at the end of mowing season. Don’t mow shorter than you normally would; a height of 3 to 4 inches is often suggested. Having the grass a little longer allows leaf pieces to sift down making them less visible. Dry leaves chop up better, so mowing can get dusty. If so, wear a dust mask and safety goggles. Rainfall usually returns in late summer and into the fall, which means renewed mowing of the grass. “Try mowing the leaves at the same time. You might never go back to raking,” Quinn said Rainfall Brings Need for Late Fall Lawn Management Tips With a little bit of rain, lawn turf in the Ozarks with cool season grasses should quickly activate this fall when temperatures dip at night. "Barring any unforeseen extreme cold weather the next few weeks, I’d recommending keeping your mower blades sharp and taking a few extra steps to be sure your lawn is beautiful this spring," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. FERTILIZER While the grass remains green and actively growing, nitrogen will stimulate good root development by directing energy toward root growth rather than shoot growth. According to Moore, the rule of thumb is to apply one pound of actual nitrogen for each 1,000 square feet of yard. That would mean a 25-8-14 analysis would require four pounds of fertilizer to deliver one pound of actual nitrogen. "Due to the cool nature of soils this time of year the nitrogen should be a type which is not strongly dependent on warm soil temperatures for nitrogen release," said Moore. Late-season lawn fertilization for cool season grasses offers the advantages of better fall and winter color, earlier spring green up, increased shoot density, improved fall, winter and spring root growth, and enhanced storage of energy reserves within the turf plant. WEED PROBLEMS "Some of the annual winter broadleaf weeds such as henbit, or common chickweed probably have germinated and should be easy to control. Any weed carryover could be easily cleaned up early next spring," said Moore. Some of the Trimec products containing 2,4,D + MCPP + dicamba are good choices for weed control according to Moore. POST-EMERGENCE There are several advantages of fall applications of post-emergence broadleaf herbicides. For example, a fall application means less risk of injury to desired plants, both perennial and winter annual seedlings can be controlled, perennials weakened by herbicide may be killed by winter weather, and bare spots left by dead weeds will be filled sooner by bluegrass and other cool-season grasses Consider Using Warm Season Grasses in Lawn After two consecutive hot and dry summers, some homeowners are asking about using warm season grasses in lawns. According to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension, both warm and cool season grasses have benefits. Most lawns in southwest Missouri are cool season grasses like fescue, bluegrass or fescue-bluegrass mix. They have the tendency to remain green through the cool months but go dormant during the hot summer months without the aid of irrigation. The opposite is true of warm season grasses like Zoysia, Bermuda or buffalo grass. These varieties green in the spring when soil temperatures warm in late April or May and brown near the first killing frost in the late fall. "Just take your pick as to your choice of turf color during given times of the year,” said Moore. Do the warm season grasses have an advantage during hot droughty conditions during the summer months? According to Moore, the answer is yes, just with a few drawbacks. “Do you want Bermuda grass in your lawn as an aggressive spreader? It does not recognize borders and invades flower and vegetable gardens and probably your neighbors’ cool season lawn,” said Moore. Bermuda grass does well with athletic fields and golf courses. Once established, it is very difficult to eradicate. However, Bermuda grass will not tolerate any shade. Buffalo grass is heat and drought tolerant once it is established. However, it has poor wear tolerance, shade tolerance, poor density and it is susceptible to weeds according to Moore. “The overall appearance of Buffalo grass may not be acceptable for some homeowners. It can, however, be an excellent rough, low-maintenance grass,” said Moore. This leaves Zoysia as the other warm season grass choice. It has the best qualities of the three for a warm season lawn except most recommended species must be established by sprigs or sod. “It has excellent heat and drought tolerance, excellent weed competition, it is not invasive, it has low fertility requirements and it has tough leaves with dense growth,” said Moore. To remain green and growing Zoysia requires 35 percent less water during the summer than fescue and over 50 percent less than bluegrass. “With any of these grass species of choice there are pros and cons to be considered. There may not be a perfect solution that applies to all yards,” said Moore. Prepare Now For Fall Lawn Renovation If your lawn has been the victim of summer stresses like grubs, disease, weed infestations, heat or an overall lack of vigor, one extension specialist recommends taking action now. "Following a planned procedure from the early stages of renovation to the full establishment of the new turf may be the difference between success or failure," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
According to Moore, Labor Day weekend is an excellent time to start preparations for seeding. Moore recommends first obtaining a soil fertility test for fertilizer recommendations. Knowing which nutrients are sufficient and which ones are needed will determine the best fertilizer needs. "A lawn starter fertilizer such as 18-20-10 or similar analysis is good. However, your soil test is always the best recipe to follow," said Moore.
Another important step is site preparation, which may include removal of debris and making sure the landscape provides good surface drainage. "Perennial broadleaf weeds (like dandelion and plantain) should be controlled at this time of the year. Trimec or Weed-B-Gone are excellent products. These products usually recommend three weeks between spraying and seeding so start early if controlling broadleaf weeds," said Moore.
According to Moore, homeowners who choose to renovate their lawn to a different grass species, or have heavy infestations of unwanted perennial grass such as Bermuda grass, must use a product such as Roundup or Finale. "These herbicides kill all the vegetation they contact, but do not hinder the germination of seed. In seven to 10 days a second application may be necessary to pick up any areas missed in the first application," said Moore.
Once the old lawn is totally brown, soil prep and reseeding can take place seven days after the final application of Roundup or Finale. Final soil and seed preparation may be the most important steps according to Moore. "You have the option to prepare a seedbed by tilling, using a power rake, a vertical mower, or slit seeder. Good seed and soil contact is needed to improve seed germination," said Moore.
Moore also recommends using a good seed mixture. Tall turf fescue blends with 10 percent bluegrass are generally recommended for southwest Missouri.
The final step to a successful lawn renovation is proper watering. The first two weeks following seeding are critical. "The key is to keep the soil surface moist, not wet, and to not let seed dry out once it starts to germinate," said Moore.
Seed should be up and growing in 10 to 14 days. "One month after you notice new seedlings, we recommend an additional fertilizer application of one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet," said Moore.
No need to worry, yet, over brown lawns Home lawns are starting to brown, but there’s no reason to worry about drought damage, yet. Cool season lawn grasses, such as various fescue and Kentucky bluegrass varieties, started going dormant in much of Missouri around mid-July, said Brad Fresenburg, University of Missouri Extension turfgrass specialist. Warm-season grasses, such zoysiagrass, were just starting to wilt in the central part of the state in early August. That dormancy, which can be brown and unsightly, is a survival mode of the grass and does not indicate a die-off. Check the crown of the plant, the point where the grass connects with the roots and protrudes from the soil. "If you can see green tissue in the crown of the plant, that plant is OK. It will survive," Fresenburg said. In a dry summer, which this one is, he typically begins receiving phone calls this time of year from concerned homeowners asking what type of seed to use for reseeding their dead lawns."My answer is that it is not dead, it’s just dormant," Fresenburg said. "As soon as we get some additional rains and cooler weather, it will pop back up." "Wait until September, see what turns green and then decide what, if anything, needs to be over seeded," Fresenburg said. He estimated that lawn grasses can go at least into the middle of August this year without any more rain before major die off will occur. That period will vary plus or minus a week depending on the area of Missouri. If homeowners begin watering, he said that half to three-quarters of an inch of water per week is sufficient. Avoid puddling and runoff, which can cause more damage than good to the lawn. Fresenburg doesn’t bother watering his own lawn. Adding water will spur growth. For the time being, he’s happy to have a break from his chores. "I haven’t mowed my lawn for two weeks," Fresenburg said. For more information on lawn care and watering, refer to MU Extension Guide Sheet G6720, "Home Lawn Watering Guide," available online at http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06720.htm.Spring Lawn Seeding – Can It Be Done Successfully? For those who missed a chance to establish (or over seed) a lawn during the fall, now is the time to take action according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “The optimum time for seeding cool season grasses in the spring is relatively short. As a precaution, there are also potential problems with spring seeding,” said Moore. What are some disadvantages associated with spring lawn seeding? Cold soil temperatures can slow germination. Tall fescue may take up to two weeks and bluegrass may require three weeks to germinate as a result of cold soil temperatures. “After seeding, do not let the soil surface dry out or the grass seed may be killed once the germination process has started,” said Moore. Crabgrass invasions begin at the same time. For best results, apply a product called Tupersan at the time of seeding. Tupersan is a crabgrass preventer and is the only such product that can be used on cool season grasses without damaging the new seedlings. “It will be necessary to apply a follow up application after about six weeks to keep the grassy weeds in check,” said Moore. There is a potential for greater water needs during the summer with spring plantings. The newly established grass seedlings will not be fully rooted before the return of hot and potentially dry weather. Moore says that means water may be needed during the summer for grass survival. What are the advantages of seeding a lawn in the fall? ´Warmer soil conditions for quick seed germination. Tall fescue can germinate within a week after seeding if conditions are favorable. ´More dependable cool days ahead for ideal growing conditions. ´Generally more even moisture from rainfall ´Less pressure from weed growth. Crabgrass is not an issue with fall grass seeding. ´Double growing season from fall and following spring before the onset of hot weather. Springtime aeration on home lawns will strengthen grass stands for summer Aeration is a highly-effective though often over-looked method of improving home lawns. Aeration, as typically done by professional grounds managers on turfgrass playing fields, is a machine-driven method of pulling soil cores. It reduces soil compaction, increases air exchange and allows water to infiltrate more quickly into the soil profile, said Brad Fresenburg, University of Missouri Extension turfgrass specialist. "Most homeowners don’t know they have access to equipment that can be rented that will do core aeration," Fresenburg said. "If they did, more would likely do it." He said the machines can be found at local equipment rental and garden stores. While aeration is an extra chore, it’s well worth it, he said. "Your turfgrass can expand, and you’ll have more root mass." Fresenburg said. "You’ll notice differences in a 48-hour period." He recommends using a machine that pulls a half-inch diameter plug, three to four inches deep on four-inch centers. Also, machines that force hollow tines into the soil are preferred over pull-type drums with tines. "Something that pulls a small core to the surface is usually the best type of aeration for home lawns," Fresenburg said. "Not all machines will meet these specifications, but any aeration is better than none at all." Fertilization is most effective when done immediately following aeration. The aerated soil will absorb fertilizer directly into the root zone. This results in superior density and color of cool-season grasses and helps grass stand up better to summer stress. Fresenburg also suggests applying a crabgrass pre-emergent herbicide just after aeration. Pre-emergents sold over-the-counter in garden centers often come blended with a fertilizer. Know the square-footage of your lawn, and follow the instructions on the package for application amounts. Fresenburg suggests setting the fertilizer spreader to put out half the suggested volume and to then go over the lawn twice from different directions. This will result in a more uniform application and prevent striping. For Missourians, aeration, fertilization and applying a crabgrass preventative should be done between now and mid-April For more information on turfgrass maintenance and weed control tips, log on to www.muextension.missouri.edu and on the right-hand side of the page click on "Extension Publications." |
Organic Methods for Controlling Crabgrass and Weeds
Organic methods for controlling crabgrass and providing annual pre-emergent weed control do exist according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “Corn gluten meal is effective when used according to label instructions,” said Moore.It is best if corn gluten meal is applied first in late March for summer annual weeds such as crabgrass. “Spread the product evenly, at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Water it lightly into the soil in order to activate it. The product should remain effective for five to six weeks each time you apply it,” said Moore.
Winter annuals such as chickweed and speedwell germinate in the fall and corn gluten meal can be effective for these weeds if applied in late summer or early fall. “Don’t expect to see instant results from using corn gluten meal. Every consecutive year you apply corn gluten meal – assuming proper timing and rate – should give you better results than the year before. By the fourth year, weed control should be very good,” said Moore.
When you use corn gluten meal you are also fertilizing the lawn with nitrogen. Each application when applied at the 20 pounds per 1000 square feet will provide two pounds of nitrogen. Two applications during the season will provide a total of four pounds of nitrogen which is generally adequate nitrogen for most lawns.
It is also a good idea to have your soil tested periodically to see if other nutrients are adequate. "Potential problems with corn gluten meal stem from the fact that too much moisture can reduce its effectiveness,” said Moore
verseeding Seldom Improves Lawns
What are my chances of thickening turf by broadcasting seed over the top of the existing lawn? Almost zero, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “I get this question from homeowners who missed an opportunity to reestablish or rejuvenate their lawn during the fall. In my opinion, your chance of getting a satisfactory stand by broadcasting seed over the top of the existing lawn is one in a million,” said Moore.
For good germination and root development, seed must have contact with soil. Scuffing the turf and bare soil areas with a garden rake prior to seeding will increase chances for success. Better yet, Moore suggests trying a light covering of loose soil. “A slicer or slit-seeder are mechanical tools commonly used to assist the homeowner in preparing an acceptable seed bed,” said Moore.
Broadcasting grass seed on top of snow is a practice thought to heighten chances for establishment success. As the snow melts, seed can be absorbed with the moisture into the soil. “Germination may occur later in the spring after some seeds lodge in soil cracks created by soil heaving due to freezing and thawing. But again, the odds are not in your favor,” said Moore.
Any application method of grass seed should be delayed until late February or early March according to Moore. Early establishment practices are risky due to unpredictable weather conditions in southwest Missouri. “Soil temperatures sometimes warm up during winter months and that makes germination possible. Young grass seedlings can then be exposed to cold temperatures and death of the seedling can occur,” said Moore.
Brown
Patch in Lawn May Be a Sign of Disease or Stress
Many Missouri lawns will be showing signs of the disease brown patch
this summer according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
General symptoms appear as small circular patches of brown, lifeless
grass, but specific symptoms vary depending on the turfgrass species and
mowing height. These patches often enlarge and join together, reaching
diameters of six feet or more. "The most common lawn grass that will
show signs of brown patch (Rhizoctonia solani) is tall turf fescue.
However, other turf species such as zoysia grass can also be affected,"
said Moore.
Grass is most susceptible for brown patch when it is
growing vigorously, and daytime temperature range between 75 and 85
degrees Fahrenheit, free moisture is present on the foliage, and night
temperatures fall below 68 degrees. "The fungus can live on dead organic
matter in the soil and attack grass when the right conditions arise.
Hot, humid conditions promote the spread of the disease," said Moore.
There are several management strategies that can help
prevent the disease. For starters, Moore recommends that you fertilize
your yard correctly. "Avoid heavy, early spring and summer fertilization
and be sure to fertilize to maintain adequate, but not lush, growth
during the growing season," said Moore. It is also a good
idea to prune trees and shrubs to allow air movement and light to reach
the turfgrass.
Another way to prevent the diseases is to collect waste. "Mow only
when the grass is dry and be sure to remove no more than one third of
the top growth. It is also best to remove and dispose of clippings from
infected areas," said Moore.
Watering correctly and thoroughly, no more than once or
twice per week, can help prevent the disease from spreading. More
frequent watering (or watering at night) provides an ideal environment
for disease development.
According to Moore, using a preventive fungicide
program, with recommended fungicides, is a final step for the worst
cases. Pesticides registered for use against brown patch include: captan,
chlorothalonil (Daconil), iprodione (Chipco), mancozeb, triadimefon and
vinclozolin. "Some chemical treatments may suppress the disease, but it
is not guaranteed. The treatment can be expensive even if you do it
yourself,” said Moore. When making a fungicide application, it is
best to treat the entire lawn instead of only the infected areas,
according to Moore.
"If only the leaf blade is affected, the grass
will come back when growing conditions are more favorable. However, if
the disease reaches the crown of the grass plant, it may be killed and
must be reseeded in the fall," said Moore
A
healthy, weed-free lawn begins
with
spring regimen
Early spring is the time to "jump-start" lawns, establishing the root system of the grass so it stands a better chance of fending off weed pressure and withstanding the rigors of summer, a University of Missouri turf specialist said.
"Cool-season grasses such as bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass grow favorably during this cool weather," said Brad Fresenburg, extension research associate at the MU Turfgrass Research Center. "Improving air, water and nutrient movement through the soil during this time significantly increases the quality of the grass."
The first step, aeration, reduces soil compaction, increases air exchange and allows water to percolate more quickly into the soil to create better root mass, he said. "Increasing root mass at this time of the year greatly improves the chances of cool-season grasses to reduce stress and survive the heat of the summer."
Fresenburg recommended aeration equipment that force hollow tines into the soil instead of pull-type drums with tines. "A machine that pulls half-inch diameter plug 3 to 4 inches deep on 4-inch centers will do an excellent job," he said.
The best time to apply fertilizer is just after aeration, "to move nutrients immediately into the root-zone of your lawn," he said. "This practice has shown excellent results in the density and color of cool-season grasses in preparation for summer stress."
Many types of quick-release fertilizers are available, and most of these work well for spring application, he said. "Applying one-half to one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet would be acceptable from early March to early April."
"Weeds are opportunistic and invade weakened lawns," Fresenburg said. "When you're trying to keep your lawn weed-free, the saying, 'The best defense is a good offense' holds true."
Planting the right turf species, reseeding bare areas, and proper fertilization, watering and mowing can keep weeds at bay. "The height of mowing influences competition against weeds such as crabgrass," he said. "The higher the cut, the lower the crabgrass infestation.
"Optimum watering practices involve less-frequent deep-soak watering to encourage a deep, healthy root system and maintain a dry surface area where weeds get their advantage," Fresenburg added. "Frequent light sprinkling encourages shallow-rooted weeds and seed germination."
Crabgrass, the curse of home laws, germinates in the spring and thrives in the summer heat, he said. "In the spring, the new crabgrass seedlings emerge around the previous year's plant unless this open space is reseeded during the fall with a desired grass, and a pre-emergent herbicide is applied to kill the germinating crabgrass seedlings."
To be effective, a pre-emergent herbicide must be applied before crabgrass seedlings and other weeds begin to emerge, which occurs when daily high temperatures reach about 70 degrees, Fresenburg said. "Our general rule is that for areas in the southern half of Missouri, application should be made by March 15; for the northern areas, application should be made by April 15.
"A natural guide that's specific to each year's fluctuating weather patterns is to have your pre-emergent herbicide in place before the yellow blooms of the forsythia have all dropped," he said.
Manage
Your Lawn to Protect the Environment
A healthy,
well-maintained lawn inspires pride among homeowners but it also
helps improve a person’s living environment.
On a hot day, a healthy lawn reduces glare from the sun and keeps
surrounding areas cooler. A healthy lawn can also attract birds and
other wildlife.
“Proper use of pesticides, fertilizers and water are
essential for a healthy, attractive lawn. But, when used
incorrectly, these same materials adversely impact surface and
ground water quality,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
That is why Moore recommends using “best management
practices” to reduce or minimize environmental pollution. Best
management practices you should consider for your lawn include:
´Know
what is in your lawn. Identify weeds, insect pests and disease
problems before searching for a solution. Help is available from
your county extension center.
´Once
a problem is identified, use the most environmentally sound
solution. For example, consider hand-pulling weeds, living with a
low level of plant damage from a pest, or using non-toxic solutions
to hinder pests.
´Be
sure and use pesticides correctly. Always follow label directions,
match the pesticide with the pest, use the correct application rate
and buy and use only what you need.
´Store
and dispose of pesticides properly. Either buy pesticides in small
quantities or store them in a secured area. Also remember to always
dispose of unused materials in accordance with federal, state and
local regulations.
´Use
water wisely. According to Moore, over-watering may cause pesticide
to leach and contaminate the ground water.
These printed resources are available from University of Missouri
Extension: G6705 “Cool Season Grasses -
Lawn Maintenance Calendar,” G6720 “Home Lawn Watering Guide,” and
G6750 “Home Lawn Weed Control
Traps
Best Method for Controlling Nuisance Moles
Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension, says he is frequently
asked, “How do I get rid of the moles tearing up my yard?”
"The question has several possible options but
only one real solution," said Moore.
Option one is to do nothing. Although the ridges from
mole tunnels make lawn mowing difficult and unsightly, they seldom kill
the grass. Moles are not vegetation eaters and do not destroy bulbs or
plants, although they can upset the root system.
Option two is to reduce a mole’s primary food sources
found in the soil: spiders, earthworms, snail larvae, insects and
larvae, such as white grubs. Moles have high-energy requirements. They
can eat 70 to 80 percent of their body weight daily, which keeps them on
the move.
“Insecticides may reduce the mole's food supply and
encourage the mole to vacate an area. This can also encourage more
damage as the mole searches for food. Keep in mind that many of the
chemicals that control grubs also kill earthworms, which are beneficial
to the soil,” said Moore.
Option three is to pursue some of the gimmicks -- like
chewing gum in the mole runs -- that claim to be effective in mole
control.
“Most of the gimmicks are unsuccessful. But, if you
have the time and patience, I heard about a retired gentlemen who had
success by sitting in his lawn chair early in the morning, next to an
active mole run, with a loaded shotgun aimed toward the ground, just
waiting for the soil to move,” said Moore.
Option four, trapping and physically removing the mole,
is the only proven solution. Three trap models on the market –
especially the Victor harpoon trap -- give good results but success
depends on the operator's knowledge of the mole's habits.
Moore recommends selecting a place in the runway
where there is evidence of fresh work and where the burrow runs in a
straight line. This indicates the tunnel is used each day as a travel
route by the mole.
After two days with no results, move the trap to
a new location. The mole likely has changed its habits, the runway has
been disturbed too much or the mole has detected your trap,” said Moore.
You can also contact the University of Missouri
Extension center in your county to request Guide
sheet
9440, “Controlling Nuisance Moles.”
Top Tips for
Successful Spring Lawn Care
Basic mowing and lawn care tips may help the average homeowner get off
to a good start with their lawn maintenance program for the year.
"Many homeowners have already mowed their yards two or
three times but it is never too late to take some steps toward having a
more healthy and easy to maintain lawn," said Gaylord Moore,
horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
First, Moore recommends starting the lawn mowing season
with a sharp mower blade. A clean cut will give a more attractive lawn
plus reduce incidence of disease. "A mulching blade will help reduce the
size of the clippings and avoid the need for bagging," said Moore.
It is also a good idea to start mowing as needed
and at recommended heights. Cool season grasses such as tall turf
fescue, fine fescue or bluegrass prefer a cutting height of about three
inches. "The taller grass will help with weed control and encourage
better root development of your lawn," said Moore.
It is also a good idea this spring to use broadleaf
herbicides for perennial and winter annual weeds not controlled in the
fall. Herbicides containing Trimec are good and recommended for summer
annuals.
"Apply post emergence herbicides while weeds are
actively growing. But, remember to keep them away from the roots of
trees and shrubs and avoid drift," said Moore.
Preemergence herbicides for crabgrass and other
annual grassy weed control should be down the first week of April in
southern Missouri if not before.
It is also a good idea to core aerate if thatch
is heavy or soil is compacted. Aeration will assist in the movement in
water and nutrients down to the root system. "Aeration is possibly the
best lawn practice that can be done in the spring and fall to encourage
a healthy turf," said Moore.
Perhaps most importantly, Moore says to fertilize only
after rapid spring growth begins to slow. "If you do late
fall fertilization in November, additional fertilizer should not be
needed until May. Over fertilization in early spring encourages rapid
grass growth thus more frequent mowing and makes the grass more
susceptible to leaf diseases," said Moore.
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Bates County University of Missouri Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 05/26/09 |
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