Bates County
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Seasonal Tips
Ideas
for Recycling Christmas Trees Range from Environmentally
Friendly to Useful
It is nearly time for families to start thinking about what they should do with this year’s real Christmas trees.
The possible options range from environmentally friendly to truly useful according to Bob Schultheis, a natural resource engineering specialist with University of Missouri Extension.
“No matter what you do, remember safety first. Don't burn Christmas trees in the fireplace or wood stove. A dry tree is extremely combustible and the resin can build up in the chimney or cause a flue fire,” said Schultheis.
BIRD FEEDING STATION
Christmas trees can be used to create a feeding station for birds and other backyard wildlife. Secure the tree by wiring it to a post or deck, nailing it to a flat wooden base and anchoring it with a rope and three stakes, or supporting the trunk in a five-gallon bucket filled with damp sand.
Popcorn garlands and strings of cranberries, unshelled peanuts, stale marshmallows or cereal will attract birds initially. Plan to add special snacks throughout the winter like apple slices, orange wedges, leftover holiday breads, fruit cakes or nuts, suet cakes or pine cones smeared with peanut butter and rolled in bird seed.
PLANT PROTECTION
Christmas tree limbs can be laid over perennial flowers (like mums and bulbs) to insulate plants against wind, severe cold and soil heaving.
Evergreen branches stuck into the ground like a picket fence around broad-leaved evergreens such as holly or rhododendrons will protect plants from drying winter winds. Christmas wreaths are a perfect size to put around many perennials as a mulch.
MULCH FOR TREES
Chipped needles and limbs make excellent mulch around trees and shrubs. Schultheis says a commonly-asked question is whether pine mulch is toxic to plants.
“This myth probably originates from some observant folks noticing few plants grow under evergreen trees and then mistakenly concluding the pine needles must be toxic. Few plants grow under evergreen trees because of dense shade from close tree spacing, competition from surface tree roots and the dense mulch of the needles,” said Schultheis.
However, with any freshly chipped mulch or sawdust, plants can experience a nitrogen deficiency. Microbes which decompose the fresh mulch require nitrogen that may in turn rob it from surrounding plants.
“This is most commonly a problem in new transplants or newly established plants. Fresh chips should be composted first for about three months or special attention to nitrogen fertilization during the growing season should remedy this problem,” said Schultheis.
ENHANCED FISH HABITAT
When the Christmas trees are grouped and placed correctly in a pond or lake, they create shade and hiding spots for fish.
Schultheis recommends tying several discarded trees together in loose groups of two to four. Be sure to remove all traces of ornaments, hooks and tinsel from the trees.
“A single tree is good, but more are better, providing spaces for fish to congregate. Let your neighbors know that you will take care of their discarded trees,” said Schultheis.
Christmas trees should be weighted so they will stay in place. Weights, such as concrete blocks, can either be tied on, or trees can be set in a bucket of cement.
BRUSH PILE FOR WILDLIFE
Brush piles can provide dense cover for ground-nesting birds, rabbits and other small mammals. Adding a Christmas tree to an existing pile can be a good thing.
“Stack layers of logs at right angles to each other to make a base for the pile. Place treetops, old Christmas trees, limbs, stones or stumps on top of the base to complete the pile,” said Schultheis.
Ideal piles are four to eight feet tall and from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.
Other options from old Christmas trees include some woodworking skills. Easy do-it-yourself plans exist for turning the trees into everything from walking sticks to coat racks.
Winter Chores Abundant in the Home Fruit Planting
By Patrick Byers
My idea of a good way to spend a cold winter afternoon is curling up with the latest nursery catalogs, sipping a hot mug of spiced cider and enjoying strawberry jam on warm muffins.
However, these delicious fruit products do remind me that there are winter chores to be done in the home fruit planting. Besides, what better activity is there to shake off cabin fever?
An important winter chore in the home fruit planting is dormant season pruning.
Apples, pears, and grapes may be pruned before January 1, but wait until February to prune stone fruits. Fall bearing raspberries may be mowed in late February. Other brambles and gooseberries may be pruned after the first of the year.
Specific information on pruning can be found in MU Extension guides available at the nearest MU Extension center or online at extension.missouri.edu.
Winter and early spring are also good times to repair and maintain the various structures associated with home fruit production.
Rotted or broken trellis posts should be replaced. Repair and tighten sagging or broken wires. Damaged stakes should be replaced. Repaint signs and other wooden structures such as arbors, gazebos, tables, and seats. Cold frames should be made ready for the spring. Check the sides of planters or raised beds for signs of damage.
Organic fertilizers should be applied in fall or early winter to allow for decomposition before spring.
Organic matter tends to tie up nitrogen as it breaks down, leading to temporary nutritional problems. This problem can be avoided if sufficient time is allowed for the material to break down before plants start growth in the spring.
Mulches for winter protection of strawberries should be applied after the soil is cold, usually after December 1. Be sure to replace any mulch that the wind has removed from strawberry beds.
Rodents can feed on fruit plants in the winter and cause extensive damage or plant death. Plastic, wire, or paper protectors may be placed on the trunks of young trees.
A general cleanup of brush, weeds, and debris will make the planting less attractive to rodents. Do not place mulches, which provide cover for pests, close to trunks or stems. Cats, traps, and baits are other ways of reducing rodent damage.
Pest control is another winter chore. Remove the egg cases of tent caterpillars during pruning. Prune out and destroy any diseased or dead plant parts such as cankers, fireblight strikes, and fruit mummies.
Dormant season pesticide applications are an important part of pest management. Dormant oil sprays are effective controls for mites, scales, and other insects. Dormant season fungicides are important in controlling several fruit diseases. Be sure to follow all label directions.
For more information, consult the "Home Fruit Spray Schedules" available from MU Extension.
Winter chores set the
stage for a bountiful harvest the following season.
Fall and Spring Are Both
Good Times to Plant Mums
Chrysanthemums (mums) are one of the most popular fall perennials for the garden according to Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “There are scores of different cultivars of garden chrysanthemums from which to choose. Each year new cultivars with improved growth habits, flower color and garden performance are added,” said Byers.
A relative newcomer has been the Belgium or European garden chrysanthemums. These cultivars are known for their spectacular size and display of color. “Although individual flowers are smaller on these new varieties, they are borne in profusion making for quite a show in the garden,” said Byers.
Garden chrysanthemums are available in the spring as rooted cuttings established in small containers or during the fall as large, mature plants in or near full bloom.
With most cultivars, spring planted mums should be pinched at regular intervals every three to four weeks to promote bush, compact growth and more flowers. With most cultivars, the last pinch should be made no later than mid-to late July. “Fall is the most popular time to plant because of the instant color. Planting soils should be well-drained and moderately fertile. Both spring and fall are suitable for planting mums,” said Byers.
Your Garden After The
Freeze
The growing season has come to an end and looking out the window, you might feel the need to clean up what the frost has left behind. On the other hand, some gardeners don’t bother with fall cleanup in their flower beds. “This is because they planned for their gardens to seamlessly transition into the cold months,” said a University of Missouri Extension horticulture specialist. “With a little extra preparation, your post-frost garden can also be an aesthetic asset with little-to-no work.”
If your garden is still evolving, now is a good time to begin thinking about the plants that you will set out next year. The pictures in the garden center in the spring only document the in-season attributes of the plants. “What is too often overlooked is that the dormant season attributes of those plants should play an equal role in your selection,” said Marlin Bates. “As you peruse garden magazines or observe your neighbors’ gardens this season, take note of plant material that looks good after the frost.”
Try to look beyond evergreens. Deciduous shrubs and herbaceous perennials (those that die down to the ground annually) can both contribute largely to a beautiful winter garden. These gardens not only present a visual benefit for your eyes, but can also provide a habitat and food source for wildlife.
By choosing certain perennials and using annuals judiciously in the garden, the fall cleanup schedule around the yard can be significantly reduced. Plants like Rudbeckia and Echinacea leave behind spent flower heads that add vertical elements in the garden. Ornamental grasses offer substance in the dormant garden with their dried leaves left uncut. Shrubs with exfoliating bark like beauty-bush or vivid stems like redosier dogwood introduce texture and color to the landscape. “Other shrubs that offer persistent fruit like winterberry also add a burst of color,” said Bates. “All of these create even more interest with a dusting of snow on the ground.”
To achieve an attractive landscape through the seasons, Bates recommended using annuals, herbaceous perennials and woody perennials (deciduous and evergreen). Balancing these plants, choosing them wisely and placing them appropriately can lead to a fall season that doesn’t require tedious cleanup.
MU extension publications on woody and herbaceous perennials and annuals are available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort.
Fall is the time of the year when those of us who still have the
holiday cactus we received for Christmas last year need to give it
special treatment to force it into bloom. Re-blooming holiday cacti
can be a bit challenging and a knowledge of its cultural
requirements is vital for success.
Holiday
cacti are short-day (long night) plants that need a long,
uninterrupted period of darkness to be induced to bloom. The
response they show to day length, however, is modified by
temperature. Indeed, flowering will occur regardless of day length
if it is exposed to night temperatures of 50-55 degrees.
Unfortunately for our cacti, this is a temperature considerably
lower than most people maintain in their homes. Most prolific
flowering of holiday cactus occurs when plants are exposed to short
days with at least 13 hours of darkness each night and cool night
temperatures. Therefore, beginning in mid-October, place your cactus
in a location where it receives no artificial light from sundown to
sunrise the next morning and continue this regimen until buds start
to form. Holiday cacti are native to a small region north of Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil where they experience a "wet season" from December
until March and a "dry season" for the remaining months. Reducing
the amount of water to slightly stress the plant at the time it is
exposed to short days will aid in the flowering process. In summary,
subjecting holiday cacti to short days, cool nights and dry
conditions in mid-October will cause plants to be in full bloom for
the holiday season.
Holiday cacti commonly drop unopened flower buds when suddenly stressed. This can be the result of a sudden change in temperature, light or other environmental factors such as excessive drying of the growing medium. Poor flowering is often due to stray light interrupting the required long, uninterrupted period of darkness during short day treatment. Interior lights in the home, street lights or even car lights can disrupt the required dark period and cause disappointing flowering. Additionally, holiday cacti are very prone to root rot, which can lead to bud drop and plant loss. This can be prevented by avoiding excess watering and maintaining strict sanitation when culturing the plant. Holiday cacti should be kept slightly pot-bound to induce prolific flowering. When re-potting becomes necessary (about every three years), the growing medium used should be very porous and well-drained. Commercially available peat-lite mixes formulated for epiphytes are good choices. Regular peat-lite mixes can be made into epiphytic mixes by incorporating additional amounts of perlite or sterile sharp sand to increase porosity.
Given proper care, holiday cacti provide years of brilliant color
around the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays. The small amount of
effort required by these plants is well worth it when one considers
the reward of seeing an "heirloom" plant bloom year after year.
Saralee Jamieson, HES Specialist
Fall
Gardening Can Be a Rewarding Experience
Some of the best quality garden vegetables are produced and
harvested during the fall season when warm, sunny days are followed
by cool, humid nights. However, there are also problems with getting
a fall garden started according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
“August brings with
it high soil temperatures, high light intensity and rapid soil
drying. These factors present real problems with getting a uniform
stand of plants,” said Moore.
In August, the surface of the soil, when exposed to the summer sun, can become very warm and dry out quickly. 'The weather combined with the fact that vegetable seeds should not be planted any deeper than three times the diameter of the seed, makes planting depth and protection for the seed crucial,” said Moore. He recommends applying a light layer of mulch over the row of newly planted seeds to retain moisture. Gardeners can also try screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row from intense heat. “This will moderate both soil temperature and soil moisture but you need to remember to remove coverings after seedling emerges,” said Moore.
Moore also offers these quick suggestions that may increase the success rate of fall gardening:
- Seeds left from the spring, if they have been stored in a cool, dry place should be good for planting.
- Seeds that are stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for several years.
- Supplement rain fall with trickle irrigation to get early established growth. Soaker hoses are good sources.
- Soak seeds overnight before planting (except beans and peas). This will hasten germination and seeding emergence when soil drying is most critical to plant growth.
- Cover seeded rows with mulch to reduce soil temperature and drying.
Top 5 Ways to Prepare for Lawn and Garden Work
The following is a "top 5 list" of early season lawn and garden activities recommended by Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
1.
Tune up lawn mower and sharpen mower
blades and gardening tools.
Regular mower maintenance will increase the life of your machine and
improve its performance. Sharpening pruning and gardening tools will
also make your job a little easier by reducing physical efforts and
putting less stress on equipment.
2. Get a soil test
done.
A lack of soil nutrients or components can directly impact plant
performance in your lawn, flowerbeds or garden. A soil test is the
only method to check for available plant nutrients, pH and organic
matter. Soil testing service can be provided through University of
Missouri extension centers for a small fee.
3. Gardens may be
tilled anytime but avoid wet soils.
Remove old plants and rubble from the garden
area prior to tilling or plowing. Old vines and plants are a source
of disease and insects that can infect healthy garden plants. It is
tempting to till the garden as soon as possible, but do not work the
soil when it is too wet. Tilling wet soil can drastically affect
soil structure and other soil characteristics. If the soil does not
crumble in your hand, or sticks together, it is too wet to work.
4. Replenish
organic mulch materials around ornamentals.
Organic mulch material breaks down and needs to be
replenished. "If needed, now is a good time to do it. A little
physical labor with a scoop shovel will help get you into shape for
the long gardening season ahead," said Moore.
5. Plan your work,
work the plan.
If you are planning on new landscape plantings or
perennial beds, sketch the plan on paper with thought to plant
selections and how they specifically fit into the scheme. "It is
easier to erase a plant on paper than to dig and remove after
planted in the ground," said Moore.
Dry Soil, Even in the Winter, Can Damage Shrubs
Water stressed plants may be more susceptible to winter damage according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. This is especially true of evergreen plants like hollies, azaleas, or boxwoods that may be exposed to direct sun and prevailing winds.
“Newly established landscape plants may need additional water. Fall planted trees and shrubs have not established an extensive root system to search for moisture so supplemental water should be provided,” said Moore. It is not too late to water plants as long as the soil is not frozen. Moore recommends watering enough to allow complete saturation throughout the root system. “Failure to water before the soil freezes may increase the potential of damage to the root system and prevent movement of water into the plant above ground,” said Moore.
Symptoms of winter include browning of leaf margins, tip browning or other forms of leaf scorch. “Hydrating soils will help but there are no guarantees. There are so many different environmental variables that impact how the plant will react,” said Moore. The benefits of mulch are also experienced during periods of dry winter weather. Mulch will help prevent moisture evaporation and stabilize soil temperatures.
Planting a Christmas Tree Adds Appeal
to
Home Landscape
Planting a live Christmas tree outdoors can offer appeal and added value to the home landscape according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. However, before planting a living Christmas tree, some preparations and precautions should be taken to increase chances of tree survival. “Be sure you have a suitable site for planting the tree. Heavy clay soils are not ideal for planting most evergreen trees because they will not tolerate ‘wet feet’,” said Moore.
As a result, some special soil preparation may be needed. The only practical solution is to create a berm or mound of topsoil to assure good drainage. “It is also important to have enough space for the tree to grow. In general, pines or spruces should be planted no closer than 25 feet from other trees, unless they are planted in a row as a windbreak,” said Moore.
Moore also notes that full sun will help a good tree shape as it matures. Good air circulation will help reduce the incidence of needle diseases and blights. The most popular Christmas tree species available locally are the Eastern white pine, Norway spruce, Colorado blue spruce and Alberta spruce.
According to Moore, there are also a few special precautions that should be followed to maximize the chances that the living Christmas tree will survive after planting. For starters, don’t keep the tree in the house any longer than one week. Warm, low humidity environment in the house causes excessive moisture loss from the foliage and the soil ball. “You may want to dig the hole prior to bringing the tree into the house. The hole should be about 2-3 times the diameter of the soil ball, but no deeper,” said Moore.
He also recommends covering the excavated soil with a tarp to keep the soil from being too wet when planting the tree after Christmas. “After Christmas, plant the tree immediately if the weather permits. If not, be certain to place the tree in an unheated garage and do not allow the tree root ball to dry out,” said Moore.
Attack Winter Blues with Gardening Plans and Dreams
It is several weeks before outside planting resumes but it is never too early to plan ahead for future activities in the home garden and landscaped areas. "After the first of the year many folks get current gardening and seed catalogs that entice them to order from an endless supply of plants and seeds. Gardening catalogs can help you prepare for next year, but check to be sure that what is being sold will do well in your situation,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
According to Moore, fruit crops are popular but home gardeners sometimes don't realize the level of attention and care that is needed for various fruit species."The average backyard grower has more success with small fruit plantings like blackberries, gooseberries or strawberries instead of tree fruits like peaches, apples, pears or cherries. These smaller fruit species produce sooner and don't need as many pesticides," said Moore.
Moore recommends that gardeners also know the management needs of the fruit species before purchasing or planting. "Soil modifications may be needed or the planting site may not be suitable. It is also important to choose the right variety for home planting. For example, some varieties are more susceptible to diseases than others," said Moore.
The same care should also be taken when selecting vegetable varieties for the home garden. Moore recommends paying close attention to plant resistance to diseases and insects.
"For best results, determine if the varieties selected have proven quality and are productive in this region. Vegetable and flowers that have been labeled as All-America Selections are always good choices," said Moore.
For more information on garden variety and selections, contact your local University of Missouri Extension center and request guide sheet 6201, "The Vegetable Planting Calendar," and guide sheet 6005, "Fruit and Nut Varieties for Home Plantings."
University of Missouri Extension is your one-stop source for practical education on almost anything. Extension programs focus on the high-priority needs of people throughout the state. Each county extension center, with oversight by locally elected and appointed citizens, is your local link to these unbiased resources and programs.
Please let University of Missouri Extension know whether or not this article was useful to you by responding to an impact survey online at http://extension.missouri.edu/swregion.
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Overwintering Tropical Plants David Trinklein, Associate Professor of Horticulture |
The use of tropical plants in pots or tubs on patios and decks is becoming a popular gardening trend. Tropical plants are well-suited to growing in containers and they (seemingly) enjoy the heat and humidity of a typical Missouri summer. Their lush growth and colorful flowers make them a welcome addition to the home landscape. Many of these plants are woody species in nature that can grow quite large in a single summer, and gardeners often are faced with the problem of what to do with them at the end of the growing season.
The answer to this problem in certain cases is very simple – if the plants have become large and indoor space is limited or light is poor, the easiest solution would be to allow the plants to freeze and start over with younger, smaller plants purchased from a local nursery or garden center the following spring. Young plants that are growing actively at the time of their purchase will most likely make more of an impact on the landscape sooner than older plants that have been overwintered in less than deal conditions. Since many gardeners become somewhat attached to their plants, allowing them to freeze is a difficult decision to make. Additionally, certain species of tropical patio plants can be a bit pricey, and the prospect of replacing them each spring is unattractive.
For gardeners who have time and indoor space with reasonably adequate light and temperature conditions, it is possible to keep tropical patio plants for another summer of enjoyment. Plants fitting into this category include hibiscus, bougainvillea, mandevilla, banana, palm and citrus (orange, lemon or grapefruit).
Hibiscus are fairly content indoors and do not require a lot of space. It is wise to cut them back before bringing them indoors, but this will eliminate the flower buds that have developed on the growth removed. Smaller plants may be placed in a sunny window where they should bloom periodically throughout the winter. If a sunny location is not available, hibiscus can be placed in a cool location and allowed to drop their leaves and go dormant during the winter. The roots should not be allowed to dry out, but since the plant has no leaves, it will not require much water. A rule-of-thumb is to keep the root system “barely moist.”
Bougainvillea is fairly rank in growth habit and can a lot of space to overwinter. If the plant was in a hanging basket or small container, it can be cut back and placed in a sunny indoor location in a manner similar to hibiscus. Because many bougainvillea patio plants tend to be large containers, a more common overwintering method is to place it in a cool location that does not freeze and allow it to go dormant for the winter. Although its leaves will drop, bougainvillea is a woody plant that will initiate new leaves and growth when placed outdoors the following spring. As with hibiscus, the root system should not be allowed to dry out but do not over-water the plant.
Mandevilla is a very vigorous vine that will need to be severely pruned before moving it indoors. It, too, can survive in a sunny location in the home and might require additional pruning during the winter if growing conditions are good. Mandevilla also can be allowed to go dormant and placed in a cool location that does not freeze during the winter. Additionally, it can be overwintered by harvesting its thick, fleshy storage roots and protecting them from dessication while keeping them cool. While requiring less space, this latter method usually requires more time the following spring before a blooming plant is established.
Bananas are probably the most difficult container plant to overwinter because of their size and high light requirement. Dwarf bananas are more likely to fit indoors and find a suitable home in a sunny window than are large bananas. If large bananas have produced side shoots, these shoots can be removed, potted and maintained as small plants throughout the winter. The shoots must have some roots present on the stem when cut since bananas do not root from the stem. An alternative storage method for large bananas is to cut the plant off and hold it in cool temperatures (45 to 50 degrees F). The cut stump will gradually die back to the soil and should be removed the following spring. When placed outdoors the following spring a new shoot may develop (in time) if the root system has been protected and not allowed to dry out.
Palms make useful houseplants as well as attractive patio or deck plants during the summer. They acclimatize fairly rapidly to the lower light conditions found in the average home although some of the older leaves might yellow and drop. Watch for insects and mites that might have gained access to the plant while growing out-ofdoors.
The various species of citrus all require about the same conditions for overwintering. If large, they can be pruned to accommodate an indoor setting. They require a sunny location, uniform moisture and a monthly feeding with a fertilizer that is acidifying in nature, such as those developed for azaleas. While they might flower given adequate light indoor, they seldom set fruit.
Regardless of the species, tropical patio plants moved indoors for the winter should be thoroughly inspected for pests. Mites are the most common pest and are difficult to detect because of their small size. While they might not have developed into a major problem on the plant during the summer, the warm, dry conditions of the average home encourage their proliferation during the winter. Watch for leaves that are pale or look stippled and inspect with a hand lens. If present, mites can be eliminated by washing thoroughly with a mild detergent or spraying the plant with an appropriate pesticide labeled for use on mites indoors.
The end of the growing season does not have to signal the end of tropical patio plants that have brought months of enjoyment. With a bit of care they can be carried through the winter as “house guests” and put to work the follow spring as an outdoor patio plants.
Divide
Iris in Late Summer or Early Fall for Best SuccessYou can divide an iris any time after blooming is completed. But, for best results, divide the plant in late summer and early fall, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
“Fall is the best time to plant the rhizomes to allow for root growth and establishment before winter. During late summer the buds for next year’s bloom are formed,” said Moore.Before dividing an iris, cut the leaves to about one third their full height. Dig up the entire clump of rhizomes. “It may be necessary to wash away some soil to see just how the rhizomes look. The most vigorous rhizomes will be those on the outer sides of the clump,” said Moore. Carefully cut the clump apart, saving the vigorous and discarding the inner, leafless ones. When separated from the clump, each division is ready to plant.
For the best display of flowers, most irises that are growing in good conditions need to be dug and divided every 3 to 4 years. “If iris plants have not flowered well, look for a new location during renovation,” said Moore.
Iris requires a sunny location and well-drained soil. In wet soil or shaded locations, or where they compete with tree or shrub roots, they may grow poorly and be subject to diseases such as soft rot and other problems.
High fertility is not required, but a complete fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium but lower in nitrogen can be quite beneficial according to Moore.
Y
Fall Gardening Can Be a Rewarding
Experience
Some of the best quality garden
vegetables are produced and harvested during the fall season when warm,
sunny days are followed by cool, humid nights. The challenge with fall
vegetable production is seeding or transplanting a crop in high
temperatures and then harvesting when temperatures are cooler, but not
freezing. “August brings with it high soil temperatures, high light
intensity and rapid soil drying. These factors present real problems
with getting a uniform stand of plants,” said Gaylord Moore,
horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Moore recommends applying a light layer of mulch over
each row of newly planted seeds to help retain moisture. Gardeners can
also try screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row
from intense heat. “This will moderate both soil temperature and soil
moisture but you need to remember to remove coverings after seedling
emerges,” said Moore.
FALL TIPS
According to Moore, seeds left from the
spring, if they have been stored in a cool, dry place, should be good
for planting. “Soak seeds (except beans and peas) overnight before
planting. This will hasten germination and seeding emergence when soil
drying is most critical to plant growth,” said Moore. Seeds that are
stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for several years.
Moore says it is also a good idea to supplement rain fall
with trickle irrigation (soaker hoses) to get early established growth.
WHAT TO PLANT
“Snap beans can be a risky due to frost but fall beans
are so delicious they are worth the chance,” said Moore. Summer squash
can also be established through August in southern Missouri by direct
seeding or transplants. The crop reaches maturity in 40 to 50 days.
According to Moore, cool season vegetables will thrive
in the cooler nights of late summer and fall and are not sensitive to
frost. Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower are generally successful when
planted in the fall. “You might also consider greens such as
lettuce, collards, mustards and turnips which are well adapted for fall
harvest,” said Moore.
Cool nights bring out the rich flavor of spinach and
make it a favorite in fall gardens. “Spinach can also be successfully
mulched through the winter and bounce back for early spring production
the following year,” said Moore.
For more on fall planting dates, visit your local
University of Missouri Extension center and request
Guide 6201, “Vegetable Planting
Calendar.”
Top
10 Ways to Prepare for Spring Lawn and Garden Work
Even during the cold winter days when weather is too uncomfortable to
think about any outdoor gardening activity, chores can be done inside to
get a jump on spring.
"If you don't start preparing for spring lawn and
garden activities now, there may not be enough time when cold weather
breaks," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of
Missouri Extension.
TOP 10 LIST
1. Tune up lawn mower and sharpen mower blades and other
gardening tools.Regular mower maintenance will increase the life of your
machine and improve its performance. Sharpening pruning and gardening
tools will also make your job a little easier by reducing physical
efforts and putting less stress on equipment.
2. Get a soil test done. A lack of soil
nutrients or components can directly impact plant performance in your
lawn, flowerbeds or garden. A soil test is the only method to check for
available plant nutrients, pH and organic matter. Soil testing service
can be provided through University of Missouri extension centers for a
small fee.
3. Start seeds indoor for transplanting.
For annual flowers and vegetables that are commonly transplanted, try
starting them yourself. Moore says the soil mix for starting seeds is
important along with correct light, moisture and temperature
requirements. Extension guide sheet 6570 “Starting Plants From Seed,” is
available through your local University extension service.
4. Prune fruit trees, grapes and brambles.
Pruning is a must in order to have healthy trees, vines, canes and
quality fruit. As a general rule, pruning is best done while the plants
are dormant around the last of February and early March, prior to bud
break.
5. Clean debris from the vegetable garden
area. Remove old plants and rubble from the garden area prior to tilling
or plowing. Old vines and plants are a source of disease and insects
that can infect healthy garden plants.
6. Gardens may be tilled anytime but avoid
wet soils. It is tempting to till the garden as soon as possible, but do
not work the soil when it is too wet. Tilling wet soils may drastically
affect soil structure and other soil characteristics. If the soil does
not crumble in your hand, or sticks together, it is too wet to work.
7. Check germination of old seeds and
purchase new seeds. Seed is cheap, and in most cases Moore recommends
the purchase of new seed each year, except for some of the open
pollinated and heirloom varieties. Whether purchasing locally or by mail
order, now is the time to place your seed orders for the up coming
growing season.
8. Replenish organic mulch materials around
ornamentals. Organic mulch material breaks down and needs to be
replenished. "If needed, now is a good time to do it. A little physical
labor with a scoop shovel will help get you into shape for the long
gardening season ahead," said Moore.
9. Prune most ornamentals while dormant
except for spring flowering shrubs. Anytime during late winter is a good
time to prune most ornamentals. However, avoid pruning spring flowering
shrubs until after bloom. For more information, get a copy of
extension's guide sheet 6870, “Pruning
Ornamental Shrubs."
10. Plan your work, work the plan.If you
are planning on new landscape plantings or perennial beds, sketch the
plan on paper with thought to plant selections and how they specifically
fit into the scheme. "It is easier to erase a plant on paper than to dig
and remove after planted in the ground," said Moore.
April Showers Bring Gardening Challenges
Wet
weather and changing temperatures can make the month of April a
challenging time for gardeners. Still, there is a lot to be done in
April, from lawn care to planting vegetables.
“Winter temperatures have been mild in southwest
Missouri but that is no reason to jump the gun with your planting and
gardening activities,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
Instead, Moore offers these suggestions for safe
gardening activities during April:
Weeks
one and two
Start
cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash and watermelon seeds indoors. |
Remove
winter mulch from roses and complete pruning (for climbing roses, only
remove dead wood at this time). Fertilize established roses once growth
reaches two inches.
Groundcovers
can be mowed high or clipped to remove winterburn and to tidy up the
plants. Fertilize and water to encourage rapid regrowth.
Finish
sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables not yet planted outdoors.
Weeks three and four
Easter
lilies past blooming can be planted outdoors. Set bulbs 2 to 3 inches
deeper than they grew in the pot. Mulch well if frost occurs.
Begin
planting summer bulbs such as caladiums, gladiolus and acidanthera at
two-week intervals.
Begin
planting warm-season crops such as lima beans, cucumbers, melons, okra
and watermelon.
Frost-sensitive
plants such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, peppers, sweet potatoes,
and basil can be set out but be prepared to cover them if cold weather
returns. Remember,
the frost-free date for southwest Missouri is May 9.
Hummingbirds
start returning from their winter sites in Central America
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Month of May Means Gardening is in
Full Gear
The month of May normally brings steady rain and warmer weather to
southwest Missouri. For many gardeners, that means putting out plants
and flowers as soon as they have time.
“Most Ozarkers are ready to put out plants and flowers
right now. The frost-free date in this area is May 13, so we still
recommend waiting until then to make sure the ground temperature is warm
enough to support your bedding plants,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Moore also offers these suggestions for safe
gardening activities during the first part of
May:
Week
one
Begin
planting gladiolus bulbs as the ground warms.
Wait
to remove spring bulb foliage until it has matured. If cut back too
early, next year’s flower production will decline.
Tomato
plants can be set out after the soil warms. Support stakes or trellis
material should already be in place to minimize possible damage to
transplants.
Caterpillars
on broccoli & cabbage plants can be controlled by handpicking or using
biological sprays such as Bt.
Place
shading material (such as lattice or shade cloth) over lettuce to slow
bolting and extend harvest.
Week two
Fertilize
azaleas after they bloom.
Place
a stake by hills of vining squash and cucumbers to mark roots for future
watering.
Begin
planting warm-season annuals and summer bulbs such as caladiums,
dahlias, cannas, and elephant ears.
Plant
dill to use when making pickles and for fresh use as an herb. Dill is
also a food source for swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. (Feed the
caterpillars for future butterflies.)
Broadleaf
weeds in lawns can be controlled with an appropriate post-emergence
herbicide.
(back
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Bates County University of Missouri Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 05/26/09 |
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