It is several weeks before outside planting resumes but it is never too early to plan ahead for future activities in the home garden and landscaped areas. "After the first of the year many folks get current gardening and seed catalogs that entice them to order from an endless supply of plants and seeds. Gardening catalogs can help you prepare for next year, but check to be sure that what is being sold will do well in your situation,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

According to Moore, fruit crops are popular but home gardeners sometimes don't realize the level of attention and care that is needed for various fruit species."The average backyard grower has more success with small fruit plantings like blackberries, gooseberries or strawberries instead of tree fruits like peaches, apples, pears or cherries. These smaller fruit species produce sooner and don't need as many pesticides," said Moore.

Moore recommends that gardeners also know the management needs of the fruit species before purchasing or planting. "Soil modifications may be needed or the planting site may not be suitable. It is also important to choose the right variety for home planting. For example, some varieties are more susceptible to diseases than others," said Moore.

The same care should also be taken when selecting vegetable varieties for the home garden. Moore recommends paying close attention to plant resistance to diseases and insects.

"For best results, determine if the varieties selected have proven quality and are productive in this region. Vegetable and flowers that have been labeled as All-America Selections are always good choices," said Moore.

For more information on garden variety and selections, contact your local University of Missouri Extension center and request guide sheet 6201, "The Vegetable Planting Calendar," and guide sheet 6005, "Fruit and Nut Varieties for Home Plantings."

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The use of tropical plants in pots or tubs on patios and decks is becoming a popular gardening trend. Tropical plants are well-suited to growing in containers and they (seemingly) enjoy the heat and humidity of a typical Missouri summer. Their lush growth and colorful flowers make them a welcome addition to the home landscape. Many of these plants are woody species in nature that can grow quite large in a single summer, and gardeners often are faced with the problem of what to do with them at the end of the growing season.

The answer to this problem in certain cases is very simple – if the plants have become large and indoor space is limited or light is poor, the easiest solution would be to allow the plants to freeze and start over with younger, smaller plants purchased from a local nursery or garden center the following spring. Young plants that are growing actively at the time of their purchase will most likely make more of an impact on the landscape sooner than older plants that have been overwintered in less than deal conditions. Since many gardeners become somewhat attached to their plants, allowing them to freeze is a difficult decision to make. Additionally, certain species of tropical patio plants can be a bit pricey, and the prospect of replacing them each spring is unattractive.

For gardeners who have time and indoor space with reasonably adequate light and temperature conditions, it is possible to keep tropical patio plants for another summer of enjoyment. Plants fitting into this category include hibiscus, bougainvillea, mandevilla, banana, palm and citrus (orange, lemon or grapefruit).

Hibiscus are fairly content indoors and do not require a lot of space. It is wise to cut them back before bringing them indoors, but this will eliminate the flower buds that have developed on the growth removed. Smaller plants may be placed in a sunny window where they should bloom periodically throughout the winter. If a sunny location is not available, hibiscus can be placed in a cool location and allowed to drop their leaves and go dormant during the winter. The roots should not be allowed to dry out, but since the plant has no leaves, it will not require much water. A rule-of-thumb is to keep the root system “barely moist.”

Bougainvillea is fairly rank in growth habit and can a lot of space to overwinter. If the plant was in a hanging basket or small container, it can be cut back and placed in a sunny indoor location in a manner similar to hibiscus. Because many bougainvillea patio plants tend to be large containers, a more common overwintering method is to place it in a cool location that does not freeze and allow it to go dormant for the winter. Although its leaves will drop, bougainvillea is a woody plant that will initiate new leaves and growth when placed outdoors the following spring. As with hibiscus, the root system should not be allowed to dry out but do not over-water the plant.

Mandevilla is a very vigorous vine that will need to be severely pruned before moving it indoors. It, too, can survive in a sunny location in the home and might require additional pruning during the winter if growing conditions are good. Mandevilla also can be allowed to go dormant and placed in a cool location that does not freeze during the winter. Additionally, it can be overwintered by harvesting its thick, fleshy storage roots and protecting them from dessication while keeping them cool. While requiring less space, this latter method usually requires more time the following spring before a blooming plant is established.

Bananas are probably the most difficult container plant to overwinter because of their size and high light requirement. Dwarf bananas are more likely to fit indoors and find a suitable home in a sunny window than are large bananas. If large bananas have produced side shoots, these shoots can be removed, potted and maintained as small plants throughout the winter. The shoots must have some roots present on the stem when cut since bananas do not root from the stem. An alternative storage method for large bananas is to cut the plant off and hold it in cool temperatures (45 to 50 degrees F). The cut stump will gradually die back to the soil and should be removed the following spring. When placed outdoors the following spring a new shoot may develop (in time) if the root system has been protected and not allowed to dry out.

Palms make useful houseplants as well as attractive patio or deck plants during the summer. They acclimatize fairly rapidly to the lower light conditions found in the average home although some of the older leaves might yellow and drop. Watch for insects and mites that might have gained access to the plant while growing out-ofdoors.

The various species of citrus all require about the same conditions for overwintering. If large, they can be pruned to accommodate an indoor setting. They require a sunny location, uniform moisture and a monthly feeding with a fertilizer that is acidifying in nature, such as those developed for azaleas. While they might flower given adequate light indoor, they seldom set fruit.

Regardless of the species, tropical patio plants moved indoors for the winter should be thoroughly inspected for pests. Mites are the most common pest and are difficult to detect because of their small size. While they might not have developed into a major problem on the plant during the summer, the warm, dry conditions of the average home encourage their proliferation during the winter. Watch for leaves that are pale or look stippled and inspect with a hand lens. If present, mites can be eliminated by washing thoroughly with a mild detergent or spraying the plant with an appropriate pesticide labeled for use on mites indoors.

The end of the growing season does not have to signal the end of tropical patio plants that have brought months of enjoyment. With a bit of care they can be carried through the winter as “house guests” and put to work the follow spring as an outdoor patio plants.

You can divide an iris any time after blooming is completed. But, for best results, divide the plant in late summer and early fall, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

“Fall is the best time to plant the rhizomes to allow for root growth and establishment before winter. During late summer the buds for next year’s bloom are formed,” said Moore.Before dividing an iris, cut the leaves to about one third their full height. Dig up the entire clump of rhizomes. “It may be necessary to wash away some soil to see just how the rhizomes look. The most vigorous rhizomes will be those on the outer sides of the clump,” said Moore. Carefully cut the clump apart, saving the vigorous and discarding the inner, leafless ones. When separated from the clump, each division is ready to plant.

For the best display of flowers, most irises that are growing in good conditions need to be dug and divided every 3 to 4 years. “If iris plants have not flowered well, look for a new location during renovation,” said Moore.

Iris requires a sunny location and well-drained soil. In wet soil or shaded locations, or where they compete with tree or shrub roots, they may grow poorly and be subject to diseases such as soft rot and other problems.

High fertility is not required, but a complete fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium but lower in nitrogen can be quite beneficial according to Moore.

Y
Fall Gardening Can Be a Rewarding Experience

     Some of the best quality garden vegetables are produced and harvested during the fall season when warm, sunny days are followed by cool, humid nights. The challenge with fall vegetable production is seeding or transplanting a crop in high temperatures and then harvesting when temperatures are cooler, but not freezing. “August brings with it high soil temperatures, high light intensity and rapid soil drying. These factors present real problems with getting a uniform stand of plants,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

     Moore recommends applying a light layer of mulch over each row of newly planted seeds to help retain moisture. Gardeners can also try screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row from intense heat. “This will moderate both soil temperature and soil moisture but you need to remember to remove coverings after seedling emerges,” said Moore.

FALL TIPS

     According to Moore, seeds left from the spring, if they have been stored in a cool, dry place, should be good for planting. “Soak seeds (except beans and peas) overnight before planting. This will hasten germination and seeding emergence when soil drying is most critical to plant growth,” said Moore. Seeds that are stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for several years.

    Moore says it is also a good idea to supplement rain fall with trickle irrigation (soaker hoses) to get early established growth.

WHAT TO PLANT

     “Snap beans can be a risky due to frost but fall beans are so delicious they are worth the chance,” said Moore. Summer squash can also be established through August in southern Missouri by direct seeding or transplants. The crop reaches maturity in 40 to 50 days.

     According to Moore, cool season vegetables will thrive in the cooler nights of late summer and fall and are not sensitive to frost. Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower are generally successful when planted in the fall.  “You might also consider greens such as lettuce, collards, mustards and turnips which are well adapted for fall harvest,” said Moore.

     Cool nights bring out the rich flavor of spinach and make it a favorite in fall gardens. “Spinach can also be successfully mulched through the winter and bounce back for early spring production the following year,” said Moore.

      For more on fall planting dates, visit your local University of Missouri Extension center and request Guide 6201, “Vegetable Planting Calendar.”

Top 10 Ways to Prepare for Spring Lawn and Garden Work

      Even during the cold winter days when weather is too uncomfortable to think about any outdoor gardening activity, chores can be done inside to get a jump on spring.

      "If you don't start preparing for spring lawn and garden activities now, there may not be enough time when cold weather breaks," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

TOP 10 LIST

1. Tune up lawn mower and sharpen mower blades and other gardening tools.Regular mower maintenance will increase the life of your machine and improve its performance. Sharpening pruning and gardening tools will also make your job a little easier by reducing physical efforts and putting less stress on equipment.

2. Get a soil test done. A lack of soil nutrients or components can directly impact plant performance in your lawn, flowerbeds or garden. A soil test is the only method to check for available plant nutrients, pH and organic matter. Soil testing service can be provided through University of Missouri extension centers for a small fee.

3. Start seeds indoor for transplanting. For annual flowers and vegetables that are commonly transplanted, try starting them yourself. Moore says the soil mix for starting seeds is important along with correct light, moisture and temperature requirements. Extension guide sheet 6570 “Starting Plants From Seed,” is available through your local University extension service.

4. Prune fruit trees, grapes and brambles. Pruning is a must in order to have healthy trees, vines, canes and quality fruit. As a general rule, pruning is best done while the plants are dormant around the last of February and early March, prior to bud break.

5. Clean debris from the vegetable garden area. Remove old plants and rubble from the garden area prior to tilling or plowing. Old vines and plants are a source of disease and insects that can infect healthy garden plants.

6. Gardens may be tilled anytime but avoid wet soils. It is tempting to till the garden as soon as possible, but do not work the soil when it is too wet. Tilling wet soils may drastically affect soil structure and other soil characteristics. If the soil does not crumble in your hand, or sticks together, it is too wet to work.

7. Check germination of old seeds and purchase new seeds. Seed is cheap, and in most cases Moore recommends the purchase of new seed each year, except for some of the open pollinated and heirloom varieties. Whether purchasing locally or by mail order, now is the time to place your seed orders for the up coming growing season.

8. Replenish organic mulch materials around ornamentals. Organic mulch material breaks down and needs to be replenished. "If needed, now is a good time to do it. A little physical labor with a scoop shovel will help get you into shape for the long gardening season ahead," said Moore.

9. Prune most ornamentals while dormant except for spring flowering shrubs. Anytime during late winter is a good time to prune most ornamentals. However, avoid pruning spring flowering shrubs until after bloom. For more information, get a copy of extension's guide sheet 6870, “Pruning Ornamental Shrubs."

10. Plan your work, work the plan.If you are planning on new landscape plantings or perennial beds, sketch the plan on paper with thought to plant selections and how they specifically fit into the scheme. "It is easier to erase a plant on paper than to dig and remove after planted in the ground," said Moore.

April Showers Bring Gardening Challenges

Wet weather and changing temperatures can make the month of April a challenging time for gardeners. Still, there is a lot to be done in April, from lawn care to planting vegetables.

     “Winter temperatures have been mild in southwest Missouri but that is no reason to jump the gun with your planting and gardening activities,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

      Instead, Moore offers these suggestions for safe gardening activities during April:

Weeks one and two
Start cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash and watermelon seeds indoors. |
Remove winter mulch from roses and complete pruning (for climbing roses, only remove dead wood at this time). Fertilize established roses once growth reaches two inches.
Groundcovers can be mowed high or clipped to remove winterburn and to tidy up the plants. Fertilize and water to encourage rapid regrowth.
Finish sowing seeds of cool-season vegetables not yet planted outdoors.

Weeks three and four
Easter lilies past blooming can be planted outdoors. Set bulbs 2 to 3 inches deeper than they grew in the pot. Mulch well if frost occurs.
Begin planting summer bulbs such as caladiums, gladiolus and acidanthera at two-week intervals.
Begin planting warm-season crops such as lima beans, cucumbers, melons, okra and watermelon.
Frost-sensitive plants such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, peppers, sweet potatoes, and basil can be set out but be prepared to cover them if cold weather returns. Remember, the frost-free date for southwest Missouri is May 9.
Hummingbirds start returning from their winter sites in Central America (back to top)

Month of May Means Gardening is in Full Gear
     The month of May normally brings steady rain and warmer weather to southwest Missouri. For many gardeners, that means putting out plants and flowers as soon as they have time.

     “Most Ozarkers are ready to put out plants and flowers right now. The frost-free date in this area is May 13, so we still recommend waiting until then to make sure the ground temperature is warm enough to support your bedding plants,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

      Moore also offers these suggestions for safe gardening activities during the first part of May:

Week one
Begin planting gladiolus bulbs as the ground warms.

Wait to remove spring bulb foliage until it has matured. If cut back too early, next year’s flower production will decline.

Tomato plants can be set out after the soil warms. Support stakes or trellis material should already be in place to minimize possible damage to transplants.
Caterpillars on broccoli & cabbage plants can be controlled by handpicking or using biological sprays such as Bt.

Place shading material (such as lattice or shade cloth) over lettuce to slow bolting and extend harvest.

Week two
Fertilize azaleas after they bloom.

Place a stake by hills of vining squash and cucumbers to mark roots for future watering.

Begin planting warm-season annuals and summer bulbs such as caladiums, dahlias, cannas, and elephant ears.

Plant dill to use when making pickles and for fresh use as an herb. Dill is also a food source for swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. (Feed the caterpillars for future butterflies.)

Broadleaf weeds in lawns can be controlled with an appropriate post-emergence herbicide. (back to top)

Courthouse, 1 N. Delaware Butler, MO 64730 Phone: 660-679-4167   Fax:  660-679-4697 Bates County is part of the West Central Region of University of Missouri Extension
		Bates County University of Missouri  Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 07/17/08
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