Bates County
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Flowering Trees Add Beauty to the Landscape
Flowering trees are important because they add beauty and seasonal interest to the landscape according to Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
"In the landscape, flowering trees are secondary in importance to shade trees that provide framing, shade and background. However, flowering trees do provide interest that few shade trees can match," said Byers.
VARIED INTENSITY
The flowering tree bloom intensity and color may vary each year. That is why Byers frequently gets asked about what factors may influence a tree's bloom performance.
"One of the biggest factors is the growing season the previous year. Flower buds are formed and set during the past summer growing season. Weather conditions or drought play a significant role on bloom intensity next spring," said Byers.
Harsh winter conditions -- such as extreme cold temperatures or early spring frosts -- can influence plant performance the following spring.
Cool spring temperatures during the bloom period will actually prolong the colorful beauty of the tree according to Byers.
SELECTION FACTORS
When selecting flowering shrubs and trees for your landscape, Byers says there are several factors that should be considered.
For starters, the size, form and overall appearance of the tree should be considered as well as the season of blooming, intensity, duration and the flower color.
"Perhaps the most important consideration is the planting site. Most flowering trees will perform best in fertile soils that are well drained. Modify soils with compost and elevate the planting area if drainage seems to be a problem," said Byers.
POPULAR TYPES
In southwest Missouri, there are several popular flowering tree types to choose from that will also perform well.
Flowering crab apple trees are popular but Byers recommends choosing disease resistant varieties. Callery pear trees, like the new Aristocrat, Redspire, and Cleveland Select, are also popular.
"Some of the favorites in the Ozarks remain Eastern redbud, flowering dogwood, flowering plums, flowering peach and flowering cherry trees," said Byers.
Redbuds are a Valuable Ornamental Tree
Redbud trees are adaptable, carefree and a colorful Ozarks native tree according to Patrick Byers, a horticulture specialist with University of Missouri Extension.
“The redbud is also useful for many places in the home landscape where a small to medium size ornamental tree is needed,” said Byers. “Redbuds are a valuable ornamental tree for home landscapes, no matter the size of yard.”
The Missouri Botanical garden also lists the redbud as resistant to deer and Japanese beetles.
The main attraction to the redbud is the bloom period, which generally begins in late March in southwest Missouri and lasts for several weeks. The native redbud has lovely purple to lavender blossoms, shaped like those of the sweet pea (this tree is a member of the pea family).
There are also white flowering redbuds, and horticultural forms that have larger flowers and reddish foliage (Forest Pansy is a good example).
Redbuds are attractive during other times of the growing season: seed pods are of interest, the fall foliage is yellow, and the bark has interesting texture during the dormant season.
“Interestingly, the redbud is also an edible plant. You can enjoy the flowers in salads, and boil or pickle the seed pods when young and tender,” said Byers.
This particular tree does best when established when young and left undisturbed.
For more information on growing successful redbud trees see MU Extension guide sheet G6805, “Selecting Landscape Plants – Flowering Trees.”
Weather linked to bark splitting in trees
Source: Chris Starbuck, 573-882-9630
Cases of bark splitting on trees, perhaps due to excessive trunk expansion spurred by this year’s heavy rains, have been reported in some areas of the state, said a University of Missouri Extension horticulturist.
“We don’t know what exactly is causing the bark splitting, but maples seem to be the most commonly affected. Environmental conditions over the past year have probably contributed to this,” said Chris Starbuck.
“It is possible that some of the cracks may have started as a result of the Easter freeze of 2007 or some other damaging event and may be developing now due to the rapid trunk expansion caused by this year’s moderate temperatures and ample rainfall,” he said.
Bark splits are not likely to be fatal to trees, but in some cases they allow entry of disease organisms, which can lead to decay. “Do not paint or try to seal a split with paint or tar,” Starbuck said. Research has shown that tree wound paints are not effective in helping the tree to callus over.
Cleaning the edges of the wound, known as “tracing,” can help the healing process. Use a sharp knife to trace around the wound no more than one-half to one inch back from the split bark. Carefully remove the bark from inside the traced area, leaving smooth edges.
Do not fertilize newly planted trees late in the growing season. This may promote new growth and increase chances of winter injury, including bark splitting.
Bark splits often close
over completely, leaving a slight ridge in the trunk where
callus tissue has formed.
Proper Tools Can Help Aid Pruning of Trees and Shrubs
Pruning trees and shrubs is often misunderstood and improperly practiced according to Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.“Several pruning principles are important before starting maintenance pruning operation. But, one of the most important steps is using proper and good equipment,” said Byers.
There is a big difference in the quality of pruning tools. According to Byers, it is important to know the proper tool for the job and understand important characteristics to look for in equipment.
In general, it is important to look for quality because tools are a lifetime investment. It is also important to pick tools that are sturdy but lightweight and comfortable to the hand.
Also be on the lookout for tools that have parts that can be easily replaced and select excellent metal that will easily sharpen and hold a sharp edge. “It is also important to pick the right tools for the right jobs,” said Byers.
For example, pruning or hand shears are probably the most important tool for pruning. They can be used to cut out small branches. The scissors or draw-cut types are preferred for close-cut precision pruning.
The lopping shears -- designed to cut much larger branches -- should be very strong and lightweight for extended use. The scissor types are preferred over the anvil style.
Pruning saws are used for branches larger than 10 inches in diameter. Pruning saws have narrow blades with coarse teeth that are designed to cut on the pull stroke.
Pole pruning shears are quite handy for taller trees and often prevent the need for a ladder.
It is also essential to take some effort to keep your tools in top condition. “Always keep the pruning tools sharp so they make smooth, clean cuts with less effort from the user. And, to help prevent spread of disease and decay, disinfect all tools with denatured alcohol after pruning diseased parts of a plant,” said Byers.
For more information on pruning practices and procedures, contact your local Extension Center to request copies of these guide sheets: G6866 “Pruning and Care of Shade Trees” and G6870 “Pruning Ornamental Shrubs.”
How to Select the Best Replacement Tree for those Damaged by Storm
The most positive approach to tree selection is to decide where a tree is needed and what that tree should do in the landscape.
Is the goal to have shade,
spring blooms or fall colors? Are power lines nearby or
overhead?
"All of these questions are important and should be answered before the tree species is purchased for planting,’ said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Consider the maximum height of the tree at maturity. Do you have room to allow for the height and spread of the tree? “The growth rate of the tree may be important too. Generally the faster the growth rate of the tree, the more susceptible the tree is to storm damage,” said Moore.
The purchaser should also be aware of pest problems – insects and diseases – and consider maintenance expenses of the tree. “When possible, choose tree species that are highly resistant to pests,” said Moore.
It is also important to remember that soils in west central Missouri can be either poorly drained or overly dry. “Be aware of your existing soil conditions and choose a species that will perform well under your situation,” said Moore.
If soils are extremely poor, Moore recommends considering trees that are adaptable or amend soils to best meet the needs of the tree. “There is no perfect tree for every situation,” said Moore. “But obviously, the recent ice storm in southwest Missouri is a reminder that planting the wrong tree in the wrong location can have consequences.”
One publication to help guide three selection decisions is University of Missouri Extension’s guide sheet,
6800, “Selecting Landscape Plants – Shade Trees.” This guide is available through any University of Missouri Extension Center or online at http://extension.missouri.edu.
Distance Tree Should
be Planted from
House Depends on Tree Type
Trees properly selected and placed can add more in livability and more value to the home than any other single landscape feature according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
However, in answer to a very common question, Moore says how close trees can be planted near the home depends on the size of the tree at maturity.
To get the most useful shade on the house at a practical distance, Moore says to place the tree 15 to 20 feet from the house. Small trees may be closer than 15 feet, but large trees should be planted 20 feet or more away from the house.
“I like to think in terms of the diameter of the drip line of the tree at maturity. You want to experience natural growth of the particular tree species. Upon maturity you will not want tree branches touching the house,” said Moore.
Several considerations are important before planting a tree.
First and always, consider the ultimate size of the tree before planting. Other considerations are to not plant trees near underground pipelines, septic tanks, sidewalks, driveways or under overhead wires. It is also best not to plant trees closer together than half their total spread at maturity.
University of Missouri Extension guide 6900, “Tree Placement on Home Grounds” will answer most questions on where to plant trees in the landscape for maximum beauty and benefits.
With Summer Almost Over
it is
Time to Plant Trees
There are advantages to planting trees in early spring or late fall according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “To get your trees off to a good start get them planted either before or after heat stresses become a factor. However, with healthy container grown stock or balled and burlaped trees, transplanting now should be successful as long as you water them,” said Moore.
Preparing the planting hole correctly and following proper planting procedures is important according to Moore. “Remember to prepare the planting hole wider and but not any deeper than the root ball or container soil line,” said Moore.
If the tree is being planted in poor soil then the soil may be amended with 25 percent compost to provide for a better root environment.
It is also a good idea to mulch in order to conserve water and hold down weed competition. A six-inch layer of bark mulch beyond the tree drip-line should be plenty. Moore says it is important to not pile mulch directly against the trunk of the tree.
“Be sure and watch your watering amounts also. Don’t neglect watering the tree but, at the same time, it is also very easy to over water,” said Moore. The soil type and tree size may dictate watering amounts and procedures. As a general rule, Moore says to avoid shallow watering. “Be sure you water enough to soak the entire root system. If needed, check the sides of the planted root ball and see if water penetration to the bottom of the root system was achieved,” said Moore.
Irrigating
Trees and Shrubs During Drought
Bob Schultheis, natural resource engineering specialist with University of Missouri Extension in Webster County provides answers to some of the most common questions he is getting.
Q: I’ve noticed lots of shade trees with dying branches or dropping leaves early this summer. Are we losing them to drought?
A: Many of our shade trees are in declining health due to several consecutive years of below-normal rainfall. Normally, we do not water shade trees, but with the dry weather, we need to help out Mother Nature with irrigation.
Q: How much water does a shade tree need?
A: A tree planted within the last three years needs about five gallons of water per week through the growing season. A mature 30-foot tall oak tree may need as much as 39,000 gallons of water to replenish a totally dry root zone. Fortunately, we don’t have to apply that much water. If we slowly soak just 20 percent of the root system, we can keep these trees alive.
Q: What is a simple way to check if the soil needs water?
A: Push an 8 to 10 inch long screwdriver into the ground. If it won’t go in 4 to 8 inches, water is needed. Another sign is if footprints remain in grass after it is walked on. By the time you see plants wilting, it is past time to water.
Q: What are good ways to apply water slowly to trees and container plants?
A: Lay a soaker hose around the tree drip-line, turn the water faucet no more than one‑quarter of the way on and run it one to two hours each week. For small trees and shrubs, use a five-gallon bucket with a tiny hole drilled in the bottom. A 1/8 inch hole will apply water at five gallons per hour.
For more information, contact the nearest University of Missouri Extension Center and ask for MU guide G6879, “Irrigating Trees and Shrubs During Summer Drought,” MU Guide G6720, “Home Lawn Watering Guide” and G6912 “Water-Efficient Gardening and Landscaping.”
Increase Fruit Tree Pollination Success by Knowing What Mother Nature Needs
Fruit and nut trees have flowers that must be pollinated before fruit will develop according to John Hobbs, agriculture and rural development specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Nut trees are pollinated by the wind, but fruit trees are pollinated by bees. “If you are planning a fruit planting, be sure to check and see if the varieties you are buying require a second cultivar as a source of pollen,” said Hobbs.
The different source of pollen is actually from a different cultivar, not a second plant or tree of the same cultivar according to Hobbs. For example, a Jonathan apple tree cannot be pollinated by another Jonathan but rather another cultivar such as Golden Delicious.
Cultivars of apples, sweet cherries, pears, Japanese plums, blueberries and elderberries generally need a second cultivar for a pollen source. “There are some exceptions such as Golden Delicious apple and Stella sweet cherry that are self pollinating, and one tree is sufficient,” said Hobbs.
Apricots, tart or pie cherry, European plum, peach, nectarine, blackberry, raspberry, currant, gooseberry, grape and strawberry plants are all self pollinating. That means only one tree or plant is adequate for pollination and fruit development. “If you have only one fruit tree that requires a pollinator there is a way to fool to trick nature,” said Hobbs. Prune off a bouquet of blossoms from another cultivar of the same species. Then, place the bouquet in a container of water, transport it to the tree, and hang it on the sunny side of the tree that needs to be pollinated. “The bees will move from the flowers in the bouquet to the flowers in the tree and pollinate them. The catch is that the trees must be blooming at the same time, and the bouquet should be replaced every two or three days to keep the flowers fresh and the pollen viable,” said Hobbs.
Transplanting
Blue Spruce Easy with Proper Steps
A blue spruce should be easily transplanted if certain considerations and steps are followed.
One key, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension, is to do the transplanting while the tree is dormant.
Select a location with plenty of room where the soil is well drained and fully exposed to light,” said Moore.
Move the plant with as much of the roots and soil intact as possible. According to Moore, the plant should have a fairly shallow lateral root system. “If you have dry soil conditions, thoroughly water the tree prior to digging and transplanting. This will help to hold the soil in place around the roots,” said Moore.
Start the digging process around the drip line of the tree. Move the majority of the roots about eight to 10 inches below the surface of the ground.
Carefully cut under the plant with a sharp spade to free the plant and root ball and prepare it for moving.
Determine the diameter and depth of the root ball and prepare a hole in the new location about twice the diameter of the root ball to be moved. Set the tree on solid undisturbed soil.
Soil that was removed from the new location should be amended with one third compost or peat before being replaced around the root ball of the newly transplanted tree,” said Moore. Once amended soil has been placed around the root ball thoroughly water the plant to settle the replaced soil. If needed, add more soil to bring the level to the top of the groundc
Cover the entire disturbed soil area around the plant with mulch. The mulch should be kept at a depth of about four to six inches,” said Moore.
Young
Trees Need 5-Gallons of Water
Each Week to Get Established
Watering is important during the establishment period for young trees and shrubs. “It takes about three or four years before the plant is established to the point where the root system may search for available moisture,” said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. Of course an extreme drought situation has the potential to stress trees even more.
Moore says it is often difficult to predict how much water a young tree may need. Several factors such as soil type and drainage will impact watering amounts and procedures. For example, heavy clay soils hold more water which makes over watering young trees common.
Temperatures are a factor and tree size is also a factor for watering. The more leaves on the tree, the more water loss through transpiration and evaporation that will occur. “Typically, most two-year-old trees require around five gallons of water per week without supplemental rainfall,” said Moore.
How you deliver that water to the plant is important. Soaker hoses, tree gator bags, or even an old leaky bucket with holes drilled in the bottom are good water sources. “Slow application of water will allow for water movement into the soil and avoid runoff,” said Moore. “And don’t neglect mulch around the new trees.”
Bark mulches are great to conserve water that has been applied. A three to four-foot band around the tree, about four to six inches thick, will control weeds and prevent water evaporation from the soil. However, Moore recommends pulling away the mulch immediately near the trunk of the tree and also avoiding cone shaped piling of mulch around trees.
“To monitor water amounts it may be a good idea to core into the soil near the root system of the tree to check soil moisture prior to reapplying water. This technique may help regulate water amounts to avoid over or under watering,” said Moore.
Pruning Tips: On the Job Training
There’s only one way to learn pruning and that’s by doing it - call it your on the job training. That’s the advice for homeowners from a University of Missouri-Columbia horticulturist Chris Starbuck, who says now is the time to get out there and touch up your shrubs and roses. “There are several advantages to spring pruning,” he said. “With no leaves, you can see what you are doing.”
The danger of extremely cold temperatures decreases significantly in March so new growth is not likely to be damaged by cold snaps, he said. Pruning cuts also callus over quickly.
Pruning opens up plants to better light penetration and air circulation for better flowering and less disease. It also removes broken or crossing branches. “There is no law of nature that that says every plant must be pruned each year,” he said. “If you can’t think of a reason to prune, don’t do it.”
Gardeners should make a pruning tour through the landscape this time of year with shears in hands to touch up trees and shrubs, especially those that have been planted in the past two years. Maintenance is always better than rescue, he said. “Remember, the more you cut off, the more shoot growth will result,” he said. “It is better to prune a little each year than a lot every five years.”
Spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia, deutzia, lilac, viburnum, mock-orange and spirea are best pruned as blooms begin to fade, said Starbuck. “This allows you to enjoy the bloom and also get the plant ready for a repeat performance next spring,” he said.
Start by removing dead or weak branches with pruning shears. Then use loppers or a pruning saw to thin forsythia and lilac by cutting about one-third of the oldest cane back to the ground. This forces vigorous shoots from the base of the plant and will form strong flower buds in the midsummer. It also tends to keep the natural form of the plant and avoids the ‘crows feet’ that result from multiple shoots forming just below a stub cut, he said.
Summer-flowering shrubs such as abelia, beautyberry, butterfly bush, rose of Sharon, crepe myrtle and summmersweet flower are best pruned anytime before new growth begins in spring. “Even though buds of many of these plants have started to grow, it is not too late to prune,” he said.
Hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, hybrid perpetuals and polyanthas should be pruned in early spring as the buds are swelling but before growth has started. Remove all dead wood by cutting at least an inch below the dead area. In some cases, entire canes may be winter-killed and should be removed.
Prune vigorous plants to between 18 and 24 inches. Remove all weak, thin wood at the base and select three to five strong canes
Rich Soil and Good Drainage Key to
Bonsai Bougainvilleas
Pruning and transplanting, along with the right amount of organics and water, will help make a bonsai bougainvillea grow. Repotting may be required every two to four years, depending on the growth environment, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. "Roots will grow more vigorously in sunny climates but that will require more frequent repotting," said Moore.
Each individual gardener will have to be their own judge on when the plant needs repotting. "One way to check is to remove the plant periodically from the pot and check for root growth," said Moore.
Generally, the best time to repot is in the spring before new growth begins. "If the plant is kept indoors most of the year, I suggest being conservative with root pruning. Whether or not to root prune at the time of repotting will be dependant upon the need and plant environment," said Moore. The plant may be pruned at any time, but flowers sprout from the tips of new growth. Therefore, if flowers are desired, avoid pruning all the shoots.
Regarding the soil mixture, the soil should be rich in organics, but
also very well drained.
Mulch
Can Help With Beautification and Plant Protection
Mulches provide many benefits to garden and lawn plants according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.“Benefits vary with the material used, the type of soil, the kind of plant and the cultural practices used. But mulches can also be used to make landscapes more attractive and usable and to reduce the amount of maintenance work,” said Moore.
Homeowners and gardeners have two different types of mulch to choose from: organic and inorganic. Most of the organic mulches eventually decompose and add value to the soil structure and some nutrients. Inorganic types are more permanent and offer no value to soil building. Inorganic mulches are most useful around permanent plants such as trees and shrubs. “It is also a good idea to use spun-bonded or woven landscape fabrics as a barrier between the mulch and soil to prevent weed growth and make the mulch more effective,” said Moore.
Mulch can also offer winter protection to plants by stabilizing temperatures and preventing heaving of plants from freezing and thawing. “Mulches may prevent the extremes of temperatures that jeopardize some more tender perennials. Mulches can also prevent freezing of the root system that may effect water movement into the plant,” said Moore.
When it comes to specific plant types, there are other important considerations when using mulch according to Moore.
Bulbs – Lilies benefit more from mulching than any other group. Two to three inches of wood shavings, straw or other lightweight material give winter protection to the more tender species. Small, shallow-planted bulbs can be pushed out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing but light mulching can largely prevent this effect.
Evergreens – Mulches help prevent winter drying of evergreens, which causes foliage to become scorched and discolored over winter. Plants that should always be mulched are azalea, boxwood, Chinese and Japanese hollies and rhododendron.
Strawberries – Mulch strawberries with clean straw in mid-December. Mulch offers winter protection to the crowns and prevents heaving from freezing and thawing of the soil.
Perennials – Perennials that most often need winter protection in Missouri include baby’s breath, bellflower, chrysanthemums, delphinium, hardy gloxinia, hypericum, linum, lupine, Oriental poppy, Stoke’s aster, thrift and thyme. When using a heavy layer of mulch on perennials, gradually remove it during the onset of warmer weather in late winter.
Roses – By December, provide adequate winter protection with a mound of finished compost, garden soil or coarse peat. The mound should be about 8 inches deep across the center of the plant.
Divide
Iris in Late Summer or Early Fall for Best SuccessYou can divide an iris any time after blooming is completed. But, for best results, divide the plant in late summer and early fall, according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
“Fall is the best time to plant the rhizomes to allow for root growth and establishment before winter. During late summer the buds for next year’s bloom are formed,” said Moore.Before dividing an iris, cut the leaves to about one third their full height. Dig up the entire clump of rhizomes. “It may be necessary to wash away some soil to see just how the rhizomes look. The most vigorous rhizomes will be those on the outer sides of the clump,” said Moore. Carefully cut the clump apart, saving the vigorous and discarding the inner, leafless ones. When separated from the clump, each division is ready to plant.
For the best display of flowers, most irises that are growing in good conditions need to be dug and divided every 3 to 4 years. “If iris plants have not flowered well, look for a new location during renovation,” said Moore.
Iris requires a sunny location and well-drained soil. In wet soil or shaded locations, or where they compete with tree or shrub roots, they may grow poorly and be subject to diseases such as soft rot and other problems.
High fertility is not required, but a complete fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium but lower in nitrogen can be quite beneficial according to Moore.
ends applying a light layer of mulch over
each row of newly planted seeds to help retain moisture. Gardeners can
also try screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row
from intense heat. “This will moderate both soil temperature and soil
moisture but you need to remember to remove coverings after seedling
emerges,” said Moore.
Prune
Spring Flowering Shrubs Before New Growth
Spring flowering shrubs need to be pruned immediately
after flowering but before new growth begins and the new flower buds are formed.Otherwise, there is not adequate time for the development of
flower buds on the new growth according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension. "Spring flowering shrubs
pruned prior to flowering will have reduced bloom due to removal of last
years growth," said Moore.
Some of the shrubs that may be pruned once
blooming is completed include: lilac, Pieris, Daphne, azalea,
rhododendron, Spirea, forsythia, spring flowering viburnum, weigela,
flowering quince, red-twigged dogwood and deutzia.
"Pruning is a very effective method of
rejuvenating over-grown or neglected shrubs, but it is best to prune
back in stages," said Moore. In the first year, remove about
one-third of the oldest limbs to ground level. Then in subsequent years,
do the same, and gradually the removal of old growth will stimulate and
make room for new growth. According to Moore, many
shrubs need to be rejuvenated by the complete removal of the top of the
plant during the dormant season. This results in vigorous specimens that
bloom more profusely on new growth.
Shrubs that should be cut back to the ground on
an annual basis include butterfly bush, crepe myrtle, beautyberry,
Russian sage and smooth hydrangea.
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Bates County University of Missouri Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 05/26/09 |
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