Bates County
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Vegetables and Fruits
Fall Application of Nitrogen
Key
to Spring Strawberry Crop
It is time to get strawberry plants in shape for next spring according to John Hobbs, an agriculture and rural development specialist with University of Missouri Extension.
“An August application of nitrogen on spring-bearing strawberries is important in order to increase the number of strawberries produced next spring,” said Hobbs.
Plenty of daylight and warm temperatures during June, July and August promotes the growth of new runner, or daughter, plants. As daylight hours dwindle and temperatures grow cooler in September and October, fruit buds for the next year's fruit crop develop. “To get a good berry crop next spring, it is important for strawberry plants to be vigorous during this period of fruit bud development,” said Hobbs.
A general application rate is one-half to three-fourths pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. The nitrogen may be in the form of a fertilizer mixture such as ammonium phosphate or 12-12-12, or in a fertilizer containing only nitrogen such as urea or ammonium nitrate.
“After spreading the fertilizer, sprinkle the area applying at least a half-inch of water to move the nitrogen into the strawberry root areas,” said Hobbs.
Excessive
Heat Stops Tomatoes from Setting Fruit
Current hot summer weather patterns, mixed with dry and hot winds will cause poor fruit set on tomatoes according to John Hobbs, agriculture and rural development specialist with University of Missouri Extension. “The threshold seems to be temperatures that remain above 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night and day temperatures that get above 95 degrees,” said Hobbs.
High temperatures interfere with pollen viability and cause excessive style growth leading to a lack of pollination. “It usually takes about three weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit large enough to notice that something is wrong and an additional week before tomatoes are full size and ready to start ripening,” said Hobbs.
The brutal August temperatures being seen in southwest Missouri will
cause a tomato drought in the future according to Hobbs.
“Unfortunately, there isn’t much we can do about this but wait.
Cooler temperatures will allow flowers to resume fruit set,” said
Hobbs.
Longevity and Taste Make Asparagus a Garden Favorite
Asparagus is a perennial that provides one of the first vegetables harvested from the garden each season. Best of all, once a planting is established, it will last for many years, perhaps a lifetime.
That longevity is why variety selection and careful bed preparation are important according to Jay Chism, agronomy specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
“Asparagus is a dioecious plant, meaning the sexes are on separate plants. The female plant produces larger spears but also produces seeds which become ‘weeds’ in the garden," said Chism. “Because of research and breeding programs, there are several improved varieties of asparagus from which to choose now.”
Examples of older varieties such as Mary Washington, Waltham or Roberts once were good but have since been replaced by improved and more productive all male varieties such as Apollo, Jersey Knight, Jersey Giant, Jersey Queen, Jersey Deluxe and Jersey Gem.
Asparagus grows best in fertile, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter.
“I recommend putting asparagus at the edge or side of the garden where it won’t be in the way of garden activities. Be sure to loosen the soil about a foot deep and incorporate well-rotted manure or compost to increase the drainage and organic matter,” said Chism.
Large, one-year-old crowns are recommended for planting. Prepare a shallow trench no deeper than six inches and space the crowns 12 to 18 inches apart in the row. Then lightly cover the crown with soil and gradually fill in the furrow as shoots emerge. Never completely bury the developing asparagus fern.
MU Extension guide sheet G6405, “Growing Home Garden Asparagus” is available online at http://muextension.missouri.edu
Plant
now for a fall crop of green beans
Homegrown beans are second only to tomatoes in popularity in home gardens. A warm season vegetable, beans fare best when summers are warm and the sun is plentiful. To extend the growing season, now is the time to plant a fall crop of green beans, said a Lula Kuma, University of Missouri Extension horticulture specialist.
Green beans can be planted from:
Ü July 25 to Aug. 5 in Northern Missouri,
Ü July 25 to Aug. 10 in the Central Region and
Ü Aug. 1 to 20 in Southern area of the state.
Green beans were called string beans because of the fiber that develops along the seams of the pods. Plant breeders have reduced these fibers through selection and green beans now are generally known as snap beans. Based on growth habit, snap beans are divided into two groups: bush snap beans and pole snap beans. “Bush snap beans stand erect without support, mature early, yield well and require the least amount of work,” said Lala Kumar. “Pole snap beans climb a support, are easily harvested and can produce a lot of beans in very little space.”
There are many snap bean cultivars available to the home gardener. A
few recommended cultivars in this area are:
ÜBush
snap bean varieties:
Contender, Provider, Jade, Strike and
Tema
ÜPole
snap beans: Blue Lake and Kentucky Wonder
There is also the possibility of growing open-pollinated, heirloom (old) cultivars, which are available in many nurseries.
Snap beans grow best when they receive full sunshine. The plant can be grown in many different soil types, but a deep, loamy soil, well-drained and supplied with organic matter and nutrients, is most suitable, said Kumar. The optimum soil pH for snap beans is 6.0-6.8. If your garden soil is clay and low in organic matter, Kumar recommended applying an inch-thick layer of organic matter (compost, manure, etc.) to the vegetable garden soil every year. Soil tests are available at your local Extension center.
In the absence of a soil test, the general fertilizer recommendation for snap beans is to apply 5-10-10, 10-10-10 or similar fertilizer at the rate of two pounds per 100 square feet. All fertilizers should be well worked into the upper six inches of soil before planting snap beans. Heavy application of compost or fertilizers high in nitrogen may induce a large amount of vine or bush growth but frequently delays maturity and yield of the pods.
The recommended depth of planting all varieties is one inch. Plant seeds of bush beans three inches apart in rows at least 24 inches apart. Plant seeds of pole beans five inches apart in rows 30 inches apart or in hills (four to six seeds per hill/30 inches apart in rows, with 30 inches between rows).
Beans have shallow roots so frequent shallow cultivation and hoeing are necessary to control small weeds and grasses. Use mulches to avoid a lot of hoeing and hand-weeding. Give beans at least one inch of water per week during the growing season. Flowering and fruiting time is a critical time for watering. Avoid getting water on the leaves because this may promote diseases. Beans are sensitive to hot, dry or wet weather; affected plants frequently lose flowers and pods
Harvest when the pods are firm, crisp and fully elongated, but before the seeds within the pods have developed significantly, said Kumar. On average, snap beans should be picked every four to six days. A few old pods left on a plant will greatly reduce the set of new pods.
For more information, call the MU Extension Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City hotline at (816) 833-TREE or your local Extension office, or visit http://extension.missouri.edu/.
Blackberries
Can be Grown
Successfully in Backyard
Blackberries are getting easier to grow in a backyard which also makes it easier to avoid ticks and chiggers.
With the latest cultivar releases from the University of Arkansas, blackberries can be enjoyed from mid-summer to frost according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. “Today, if I had two varieties of blackberries to choose, it would be Navaho and Apache. No thorns and no need for trellising makes these high quality berries a favorite,” said Moore.
While Navaho berries have an excellent flavor, berry size is small. Alternatively, Apache has very large berry size, but the fruit could be sweeter.
Other options are the primocane-fruiting cultivars such as PrimeJan and PrimeJim. These varieties make it possible to harvest fruit from mid-July through frost, but be aware of the thorns. Of the two, PrimeJan is the sweeter berry according to Moore. “With primo-cane varieties, fruit set is reduced when temperatures go beyond 85 degrees. However, pruning is easily accomplished by mowing all canes to the ground before new growth in the spring,” said Moore.
Blackberries are easy to grow, according to Moore, providing that they have well-drained soils, proper fertility and ample moisture. “You may check with the local nurseries for these blackberry varieties. Several mail order nurseries are available that specialize in blackberries and other small fruits,” said Moore.
For a list of mail order nurseries and blackberry cultural information contact the University of Missouri Extension in Greene County at (417) 862-9284.
Compost to improve your garden soil
When you have gardening issues, the root of the difficulty is generally substandard soil. The good news is that whether your garden has a nutrition, moisture or aeration problem, the soil can be repaired with compost, said a University of Missouri Extension horticulture specialist.
Primarily consisting of decomposed organic matter, compost can improve soil drainage, aeration and fertility. Decomposed organic matter improves the texture of heavy clay soils, which allows greater water infiltration and air movement, and allows the soil to be more easily worked. As organic matter breaks down, nutrients become soluble and are available to the plant when the compost is added to the soil. “While unlikely that the nutritional requirements of the garden will be satisfied by adding compost, an application can greatly reduce your fertilizer inputs,” said Marlin Bates.
Waste generated from your household and yard will easily provide enough organic matter to warrant composting. Plant materials, including sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, weeds, sawdust and hedge clippings, are suitable for contribution to the compost bin. Household refuse such as newspaper, vegetable scraps and coffee grounds are also good additions. Items that should not be composted include weeds, seeds, diseased plant material, grease, fat, meat scraps and bones.
To get started, you will need to identify a good location for your compost bin. Preference should be given to convenience. Bates recommended placing your compost bin near a water supply in the shade. “Keeping the bin contents moist will be easier than if it is receiving the heat of the sun,” said Bates. Another tip: Place the compost bin on a well-drained site near the garden to reduce the distance that you have to transport the finished compost.
Once an adequate site is selected, decide what kind of structure to use, if any at all. You can simply create a heap of compost on the ground without any confinement, though this method is usually more unsightly. Minimum dimensions for this method should be 5 feet-by-5-feet-by-3 feet. Alternatively, there are several types of bins that can be bought or made. An important consideration is the ease with which you can turn the pile. The bin should be constructed in a way that allows the sides to be easily removed or should be built with only three permanent sides. A good compost bin will allow air to flow freely within the pile, but restrict rapid moisture loss. Usually this can be achieved by creating a balance of open and closed spaces in the structure.
The length of time needed to completely decompose the materials in your compost bin will depend on several factors. Different sources of composting material decompose at different rates. Grass clippings, for instance, decompose more quickly than woody stems. Also, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will impact the rate of decomposition. Managing this ratio is critical in maximizing the capabilities of the microorganisms that hasten the decomposing process. Other factors that affect how long it will take for the compost to be ready include aeration, moisture and temperature.
Now is the perfect time to start composting. With the organic materials you will accumulate this summer and fall, you should have a quality compost to enrich your garden next spring.
MU Extension guide, “Making and Using Compost” (G6956), is available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06956.htm.
Color Does not Impact Growing
Techniques for Bell Peppers
The sweet varieties of peppers, especially bells peppers, have been the most popular to grow and eat in the United States. Bell peppers are eaten green or ripe and are used for salads, stuffing, soup, stews, relishes and pickling.
New developments in color and form have done nothing to dull the popularity of sweet peppers according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Bell peppers are now available in many different colors including red, yellow, orange, purple, ivory and even chocolate. “Missouri growers often find it challenging to produce colored bell peppers during the summer heat. Intense temperatures and sunlight during the summer months often induces sunscald on bell peppers before they attain full color,” said Moore.
Peppers require more heat than tomatoes and planting should be delayed until the soil thoroughly warms according to Moore. A double-staggered row planted about 18 inches between rows and 12 to 18 inches between plants is a good practice. The twin row provides an excellent shaded canopy for fruit maturation.
To develop full color, many colored bells require an additional two weeks beyond the mature green stage. This additional time makes them even more susceptible to sunscald. In fact, Moore says any factor that reduces leaf or canopy area will trigger sunscald. “Good nutrition and adequate water is a must. It is also a good idea for bell peppers to be staked in order to create a more upright canopy and reduce the risk of wind lodging,” said Moore.
According to Moore, there are
some cultural controls for borers that should be standard practices
in landscape plantings. “Water newly planted trees carefully to keep
the soil ball uniformly moist during the first two growing seasons,”
said Moore. “You also need to avoid mechanical damage to the trunks
of new trees, wrap them through the winter to prevent trunk scald,
fertilize moderately and keep broadleaf herbicides away from tree
roots.
Increase
Fruit Tree Pollination Success by Knowing What Mother Nature Needs
Fruit and nut trees have flowers that must be pollinated before fruit will develop according to John Hobbs, agriculture and rural development specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Nut trees are pollinated by the wind, but fruit trees are pollinated by bees. “If you are planning a fruit planting, be sure to check and see if the varieties you are buying require a second cultivar as a source of pollen,” said Hobbs.
The different source of pollen is actually from a different cultivar, not a second plant or tree of the same cultivar according to Hobbs. For example, a Jonathan apple tree cannot be pollinated by another Jonathan but rather another cultivar such as Golden Delicious.
Cultivars of apples, sweet cherries, pears, Japanese plums, blueberries and elderberries generally need a second cultivar for a pollen source. “There are some exceptions such as Golden Delicious apple and Stella sweet cherry that are self pollinating, and one tree is sufficient,” said Hobbs.
Apricots, tart or pie cherry, European plum, peach, nectarine, blackberry, raspberry, currant, gooseberry, grape and strawberry plants are all self pollinating. That means only one tree or plant is adequate for pollination and fruit development. “If you have only one fruit tree that requires a pollinator there is a way to fool to trick nature,” said Hobbs. Prune off a bouquet of blossoms from another cultivar of the same species. Then, place the bouquet in a container of water, transport it to the tree, and hang it on the sunny side of the tree that needs to be pollinated. “The bees will move from the flowers in the bouquet to the flowers in the tree and pollinate them. The catch is that the trees must be blooming at the same time, and the bouquet should be replaced every two or three days to keep the flowers fresh and the pollen viable,” said Hobbs.
Moore also notes that full sun will help a good tree shape as it matures. Good air circulation will help reduce the incidence of needle diseases and blights. The most popular Christmas tree species available locally are the Eastern white pine, Norway spruce, Colorado blue spruce and Alberta spruce.
According to Moore, there are also a few special precautions that should be followed to maximize the chances that the living Christmas tree will survive after planting. For starters, don’t keep the tree in the house any longer than one week. Warm, low humidity environment in the house causes excessive moisture loss from the foliage and the soil ball. “You may want to dig the hole prior to bringing the tree into the house. The hole should be about 2-3 times the diameter of the soil ball, but no deeper,” said Moore.
He also recommends covering the excavated soil with a tarp to keep the soil from being too wet when planting the tree after Christmas. “After Christmas, plant the tree immediately if the weather permits. If not, be certain to place the tree in an unheated garage and do not allow the tree root ball to dry out,” said Moore.
Mulch Benefits in the
Vegetable Garden
Mulch has many benefits in the home vegetable garden
including the restriction of weed growth and perhaps improved vegetable
growth and yield.
"The type of mulch material you use in your vegetable
garden -- whether it is organic or inorganic -- will determine the
direct benefit and plant response," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
Organic mulch includes sawdust, wood chips, compost mulch,
straw or newspapers. According to Moore, the advantages of using organic
materials as mulch include weed control, moisture retention, soil
cooling and the addition of organic matter to the soil as materials
decompose.
Plastic is the best example of inorganic mulch. It
provides some of the same benefits as organic mulch but it can also
promote other soil or plant reactions.
"Plastic will warm the soil quicker than exposed bare
soil or organic mulched soils. Warmer soil temperatures will allow for
earlier planting, quick seed germination and good root development. But,
be aware of the suggested frost-free dates in your area to protect your
germinating seedlings," Moore said.
There are also different colored plastic mulches
available but black plastic mulch remains the predominate color used.
According to Moore, soil temperatures under black plastic mulch during
the daytime are generally three degrees higher at a four-inch depth
compared to bare soil.
"Soil temperatures absorb heat and warm quicker under
clear plastic. However, weeds will grow under clear plastic unless
herbicides are used. Newer colored plastics such as red, yellow, blue,
gray and orange have been investigated and because of the reflective
patterns into the canopy of the plant some impact on plant growth and
development have been detected," Moore said.
For example, in some studies tomatoes have
shown benefits of improved yields, enhanced ripening, lowered incidence
of early blight and improved quality of the fruit with red mulches.
Plant
Tomatoes after May 1 for Plentiful Summer Crop
The tomato is the most popular garden vegetable in
America. Part of the popularity of the tomato comes from the fact that
tomatoes can be grown successfully in everything from a traditional
garden to a container on the back patio if you just follow a few basic
management procedures.
According to Gaylord Moore, horticulture
specialist, University of Missouri Extension, one of the keys to having
a successful crop is to wait until after May 1 to plant your tomatoes.
“Earlier plantings, without proper soil preparation and plant
protection, produce less vigorous plants because of cool soil
temperatures. Plants growing in the warmer soil that exist after May 1
will generally surpass and out perform other tomatoes planted earlier in
the season,” Moore said.
According to Moore, there are several important management practices for
successful tomato production.
First, choose varieties that are known to be
resistant to diseases such as fusarium and verticillium wilt. These are
generally identified on the plant label as VNF resistant.
Make certain the transplants are healthy, strong
in appearance, free of disease and show good color.
Remember that tomatoes prefer fertile soils with
good drainage. It is best to avoid high nitrogen fertilization until
after the tomatoes begin to fruit.“It is a good idea to stake the
tomatoes to keep them off the ground. This will reduce rots and other
incidence of disease,” said Moore.
Mulch will provide good weed control, reduce moisture
loss and blight diseases. However, Moore recommends not applying mulches
until soil temperatures are warm.
It is also a good idea to water from the bottom of the
tomato plant with a soaker hose or other forms of trickle irrigation.
Avoid moisture to the leaves to reduce foliar blight.
Pruning of the plant is optional but it does encourage
larger fruit of high quality.
“To reduce the invasion of foliar diseases such
as septoria leaf spot consider using a fungicide such as Daconil,
Mancozeb or Diathane on a regular seven to ten day schedule beginning at
flowering through harvest,” said Moore.
If you have questions about tomatoes, contact your local University of
Missouri Extension center and ask for
Guide
sheet 6461, “Growing Home Garden Tomatoes.”
Basic
Management Can Help Reduce
Tomato Blight
Tomatoes are the number one crop planted in the vegetable garden according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.
“While tomatoes are popular and easy to grow, both the home gardener and commercial grower find it challenging to maintain productivity throughout the growing season,” said Moore.
Diseases such as Septoria leaf spot and early blight affect the
lower portion of the tomato plant and shorten productivity. Without
effective control, the disease will start at the bottom of the plant and
work to the top until plants completely defoliate.
Environmental conditions play a role in presence and severity of certain diseases. Abundant rainfall and high humidity pose a threat to severe blight conditions. As a result, blight may be worse some years than others.
Little resistance to blight is available through variety selections, so proper cultural management techniques are important for control.
“Disease management must start early in the season. Once you have
the problem, control is difficult,” said Moore. “There are some
management practices that can help control blight.”
Site
and ground selection.
If possible, a three to four year
rotation with crops outside of the Solanacea family should be followed.
Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are within the same family and
these crops should not be included in the rotation planting cycle.
Fertile
soil,
disease free plants and observing proper planting dates
should be followed can help manage blight. “Plants stressed prior to
planting or following planting may lead to disaster. Home gardeners
should try and avoid planting tomatoes before the soil has warmed to
avoid stunting and plant stress. A healthy plant will better resist some
diseases,” said Moore.
Avoid
ground contact
with plant foliage.“For best results, stake
tomato plants and mulch underneath them to reduce the incidence of
blight transfer from the soil to the plant. Avoid mulching tomatoes
until the soil has thoroughly warmed to allow for optimum growth,” said
Moore.For the home gardener wheat straw is an excellent mulch source.
Blights are soil borne diseases and anything that inhibits the transfer
of spores from the ground to the plant will help increase the chances
for control, according to Moore.
Good
air circulation
around the plants (aided by proper spacing
and pruning) will reduce blight infections. If room allows, 30 inches
between staked indeterminate plants is suggested. “In my opinion, staked
versus caged tomatoes will be less pronged for disease. Staked tomatoes
are more accessible to proper pruning which removes excess foliage that
may hinder air circulation,” said Moore.Basic pruning is the removal of
side shoots or suckers when they are three to four inches long.
Avoid
overhead irrigation
during the evening. “Better yet, trickle
irrigation or bottom irrigation will help avoid moisture contact with
the leaves reducing conditions for ideal disease development,” said
Moore.
If
all procedures fail to control blight, be prepared to replant
transplants about the middle of July for a fall crop. Typical summer
conditions of heat and dry weather result in less incidence of disease
thus providing productive plants until frost.
Chemical
fungicide application
is often needed but application timing
is crucial. For the commercial grower, Quadris will provide the best
control of foliar disease when alternated with chlorothalonil or
mancozeb. Home gardeners may use chlorothalonil (Daconil), maneb, or
mancozeb. “Nothing guarantees 100 percent control. But following all of
the suggested recommendations for good management and cultural practices
is a giant step in the right direction,” said Moore.(back
to top)
Sweet Corn Success
Can Produce Tasty Bounty
Sweet corn is a home gardener’s favorite
vegetable because it tastes better when it is harvested and eaten fresh
from the garden according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist,
University of Missouri Extension.
“Sweet corn is easily grown with sufficient
light, fertility, growing season and space. Successive plantings can
yield continual harvest from early summer until frost if the weather
cooperates,” said Moore.
Sweet corn may be divided into three distinct
types according to genetics: normal sugary (SU), sugary enhancer (SE)
and super sweet (Sh2).
"For the typical gardener looking for outstanding
quality, flavor and refrigerated storage, the sugary enhancer is
typically the best choice. Fresh from the garden, virtually all SE
releases have eating quality that is superior to others,” said Moore.
Yellow varieties that Moore has personal experience
growing and rates as “outstanding” are Bodacious (72 days), Incredible
(83 days), Kandy Korn (89 days), and Miracle (84 days). Ambrosia (75
days) is a bicolor variety that is excellent.
According to Moore, the super sweet varieties
should be planted when the soil temperatures have reached at least 60 to
65 degrees to insure quick germination and even stand of plants.
“I may waste a little seed, but to insure a perfect stand I over plant
my seed (about 6 inches apart). Once a stand is established, I thin out
plants to about 12 inches apart. Plant the kernels about one-half inch
deep in cool, moist soils and one to one and a half inches deep in warm,
dry soils,” said Moore.
Moore recommends planting two or more rows of each
variety side by side (with 30 to 36 inches between rows) to ensure good
pollination and ear development.
Irrigation is the key to controlling weeds in corn. A lack of water
during critical periods can also seriously reduce quality and yield.“If
rainfall is deficient, irrigate thoroughly during emergence of the
tassels, silking, and maturation of the ears. Giving each plant a
side-dress of nitrogen fertilizer can also be beneficial,” said Moore.
Sweet corn ears should be picked when the kernels are
fully formed but not fully mature. This stage occurs about 20 days after
the appearance of the first silk strands. The kernels are smooth and
plump, and the juice in the kernel appears milky when punctured with a
thumbnail.
According to Moore, the pest most damaging to corn is the earworm.
Unfortunately, the home gardener does not easily control the corn
earworm. Research does show that earlier plantings are not as badly
infested by earworms as later plantings. Moore also recommends an
insecticide like Sevin that can be applied as the silks begin to emerge.
“My advice is to counsel with the earworm and compromise how much of the
ear tip they may devour. They can have an inch of the tip, but no more.
Cutting the worm infected tip off at the time of harvest is not too
difficult and can be sufficient,” said Moore.(back
to top)
itrogen
Use Care When Side Dressing
Vegetables with Nitrogen
Vegetables and flowers vary in the amounts of nitrogen they need
according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of
Missouri Extension.
“Usually, vegetable crops require most of their nitrogen after they
have made considerable growth or have begun to fruit. Too much
nitrogen before this time will delay maturity and reduce flowering
and yields,” said Moore.
Plants get nitrogen from three major sources: the breakdown of
organic matter, yearly maintenance application of fertilizer or the
nitrogen side dressings.
“Often, the plant needs additional nitrogen by side dressing to
complete fruiting and growth and to keep the plant vigorous and
healthy,” said Moore.
However, various plants or crops have different recommended nitrogen
side dressings and the timing of the side dressing is very
important.
“The nitrogen with most garden fertilizers is best utilized with
frequent light applications,” said Moore.
For example, tomatoes respond best to about three different side
dressings. The first application should be one to two weeks before
the first tomato ripens, then two weeks after picking the first ripe
tomato, and again, one month later.
About one-third of a pound of actual nitrogen is required for each
100-foot row. For example, ammonium nitrate is 33 percent nitrogen.
It would take about 1 pound of the ammonium nitrate to give the
required amount for a 100-foot row of tomatoes.
“You may figure other high nitrogen type fertilizers to apply based
upon the actual nitrogen percentage. Other forms of nitrogen such as
urea, calcium nitrate and ammonium sulfate may be used on an
equivalent nitrogen basis,” said Moore.
Other crops
that require nitrogen side dressing include: cucumber and cantaloupe
about one week after blossoming begins, and again three weeks later;
sweet corn, when plants are eight to 10 inches tall and again one week
after tassels appear; potatoes, but only after the tuber formation
starts.
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Bates County University of Missouri Extension Center BatesCo@missouri.edu Updated 09/02/08 |
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