Past copies of the daily or weekly newspaper can have a second life in your garden as mulch or a weed barrier according to Mark Bernskoetter, president of University of Missouri Extension’s Greene County Chapter of Master Gardeners.

“Newsprint (not slick paper used in inserts or magazines) is a great tool for the garden,” said Bernskoetter. “Even newsprint with color pictures is generally fine since most use biodegradable and water-soluble inks that won't harm the environment.”

Whether a person is creating a new flower bed, a mulched area around a tree, or covering paths between rows in a vegetable garden, newspaper has all the great properties expected and wanted from organic mulches. 

“When you lay newsprint out several (4 to 10) sheets thick and overlap one group of sheets onto the next, you create a weed barrier that will smother out many existing plants.  It will also preserve moisture so you don't need to worry about watering as often,” said Bernskoetter.

Newsprint will dissolve in a few weeks or months, leaving behind no residual mess. 

If a gardener wants a nicer look, after laying down the newspaper, cover it with mulch. “I would not put wood chips in my vegetable garden, but straw is a great cover between rows.  On the other hand, I would not put straw in my flower beds in front of the house since I think wood mulch looks better,” said Bernskoetter.

Using newspaper as a mulch or weed barrier results in a cost savings. But remember, it will take a lot of newspaper to cover an entire garden. 

“Newsprint can be used in composting too. Just shred it up and add it to your compost pile as dry or brown matter,” said Bernskoetter.

Annual pruning is a necessary cultural practice that helps maintain consistent production of quality fruit according to Jay Chism, agronomy specialist with University of Missouri Extension.

“The best time to prune blueberries is late winter before the buds begin to swell,” said Chism. “Pruning helps to shape the plant, manage the crop load, increase berry size, and rejuvenate plants.”

 According to Bernadine Strik, a berry crops specialist with the Oregon State University Extension Service, research has shown that annual, moderate pruning results in bushes with the fewest canes, but with the greatest yields and largest fruit. 

When plants are not pruned or pruned too lightly, they become dense with weak, twiggy growth. However, severe pruning leads to the production of fewer, larger berries and more new wood. 

Annual pruning consists of several steps according to Chism.

First, remove low branches and long canes that will touch the ground when loaded with fruit.  “Any berry laden wood that will be damaged from mowing equipment will also need to be removed,” said Chism.

Next, prune canes that show signs of disease or insect damage.  If twig blight (Phomopsis vaccinii) is suspected be sure to disinfect pruning tools between each cut.  “Sanitation before pruning each plant is always a good idea even in the absence of disease symptoms,” said Chism.

When pruning, it is recommended to try and keep all canes less than six year old.  Canes become less productive with age. “About 20 percent of the older canes should be removed each year after the fourth harvest,” said Chism. 

It is also best to try and prune to let light into the center of the plant. “Although time consuming, proper pruning will help maintain your investment and keep your plants producing many years in to the future,” said Chism. 

Pumpkins are the centerpiece of fall décor according to Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension. Yet, picking the right pumpkin is, in many ways, a matter of personal preference because beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  “Success in selecting a pumpkin is not about shape, but the initial quality of keeping it fresh throughout the Thanksgiving season,” Byers said.

According to Byers, good color development is important, but several other considerations and inspection points are more important.“Avoid any pumpkins that have cracks or splits. Gently squeeze or press your fingers into the fruit.  A fresh pumpkin should be solid to the touch,” Byers said.

It is also important to pay close attention to the blossom or bottom end and area around the stem.  “Be sure and avoid pumpkins that have soft spots or sunken areas where decay has already started,” Byers said.

When handling and carrying a pumpkin, be sure to use care and not use the stem as a handle. “To prevent damage be sure and grasp your hands and arms around the pumpkin and carry it from the bottom,” Byers said.

A good solid and healthy pumpkin should keep for several months or at least through Thanksgiving according to Byers. “Pumpkins store best under cooler conditions, but hard freezes in the season will damage pumpkins causing them to turn to mush,” Byers said.

It is time to get strawberry plants in shape for next spring according to John Hobbs, an agriculture and rural development specialist with University of Missouri Extension.

“An August application of nitrogen on spring-bearing strawberries is important in order to increase the number of strawberries produced next spring,” said Hobbs.

Plenty of daylight and warm temperatures during June, July and August promotes the growth of new runner, or daughter, plants. As daylight hours dwindle and temperatures grow cooler in September and October, fruit buds for the next year's fruit crop develop. “To get a good berry crop next spring, it is important for strawberry plants to be vigorous during this period of fruit bud development,” said Hobbs.

A general application rate is one-half to three-fourths pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. The nitrogen may be in the form of a fertilizer mixture such as ammonium phosphate or 12-12-12, or in a fertilizer containing only nitrogen such as urea or ammonium nitrate.

“After spreading the fertilizer, sprinkle the area applying at least a half-inch of water to move the nitrogen into the strawberry root areas,” said Hobbs.

Current hot summer weather patterns, mixed with dry and hot winds will cause poor fruit set on tomatoes according to John Hobbs, agriculture and rural development specialist with University of Missouri Extension. “The threshold seems to be temperatures that remain above 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night and day temperatures that get above 95 degrees,” said Hobbs.

High temperatures interfere with pollen viability and cause excessive style growth leading to a lack of pollination. “It usually takes about three weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit large enough to notice that something is wrong and an additional week before tomatoes are full size and ready to start ripening,” said Hobbs.

The brutal August temperatures being seen in southwest Missouri will cause a tomato drought in the future according to Hobbs. “Unfortunately, there isn’t much we can do about this but wait. Cooler temperatures will allow flowers to resume fruit set,” said Hobbs.

 

Longevity and Taste Make Asparagus a Garden Favorite

Asparagus is a perennial that provides one of the first vegetables harvested from the garden each season. Best of all, once a planting is established, it will last for many years, perhaps a lifetime.

That longevity is why variety selection and careful bed preparation are important according to Jay Chism, agronomy specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

“Asparagus is a dioecious plant, meaning the sexes are on separate plants. The female plant produces larger spears but also produces seeds which become ‘weeds’ in the garden," said Chism. “Because of research and breeding programs, there are several improved varieties of asparagus from which to choose now.”

Examples of older varieties such as Mary Washington, Waltham or Roberts once were good but have since been replaced by improved and more productive all male varieties such as Apollo, Jersey Knight, Jersey Giant, Jersey Queen, Jersey Deluxe and Jersey Gem.

Asparagus grows best in fertile, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter.

“I recommend putting asparagus at the edge or side of the garden where it won’t be in the way of garden activities. Be sure to loosen the soil about a foot deep and incorporate well-rotted manure or compost to increase the drainage and organic matter,” said Chism.

Large, one-year-old crowns are recommended for planting. Prepare a shallow trench no deeper than six inches and space the crowns 12 to 18 inches apart in the row. Then lightly cover the crown with soil and gradually fill in the furrow as shoots emerge. Never completely bury the developing asparagus fern.

Mulch Benefits in the Vegetable Garden

     <sup>Mulch has many benefits in the home vegetable garden including the restriction of weed growth and perhaps improved vegetable growth and yield.

     "The type of mulch material you use in your vegetable garden -- whether it is organic or inorganic -- will determine the direct benefit and plant response," said Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

    Organic mulch includes sawdust, wood chips, compost mulch, straw or newspapers. According to Moore, the advantages of using organic materials as mulch include weed control, moisture retention, soil cooling and the addition of organic matter to the soil as materials decompose.

     Plastic is the best example of inorganic mulch. It provides some of the same benefits as organic mulch but it can also promote other soil or plant reactions.

     "Plastic will warm the soil quicker than exposed bare soil or organic mulched soils. Warmer soil temperatures will allow for earlier planting, quick seed germination and good root development. But, be aware of the suggested frost-free dates in your area to protect your germinating seedlings," Moore said.

     There are also different colored plastic mulches available but black plastic mulch remains the predominate color used. According to Moore, soil temperatures under black plastic mulch during the daytime are generally three degrees higher at a four-inch depth compared to bare soil.

     "Soil temperatures absorb heat and warm quicker under clear plastic. However, weeds will grow under clear plastic unless herbicides are used. Newer colored plastics such as red, yellow, blue, gray and orange have been investigated and because of the reflective patterns into the canopy of the plant some impact on plant growth and development have been detected," Moore said.

       For example, in some studies tomatoes have shown benefits of improved yields, enhanced ripening, lowered incidence of early blight and improved quality of the fruit with red mulches.</sup>

Plant Tomatoes after May 1 for Plentiful Summer Crop

     The tomato is the most popular garden vegetable in America. Part of the popularity of the tomato comes from the fact that tomatoes can be grown successfully in everything from a traditional garden to a container on the back patio if you just follow a few basic management procedures.

      According to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension, one of the keys to having a successful crop is to wait until after May 1 to plant your tomatoes. “Earlier plantings, without proper soil preparation and plant protection, produce less vigorous plants because of cool soil temperatures. Plants growing in the warmer soil that exist after May 1 will generally surpass and out perform other tomatoes planted earlier in the season,” Moore said.

      According to Moore, there are several important management practices for successful tomato production.

      First, choose varieties that are known to be resistant to diseases such as fusarium and verticillium wilt. These are generally identified on the plant label as VNF resistant.

      Make certain the transplants are healthy, strong in appearance, free of disease and show good color.

      Remember that tomatoes prefer fertile soils with good drainage. It is best to avoid high nitrogen fertilization until after the tomatoes begin to fruit.“It is a good idea to stake the tomatoes to keep them off the ground. This will reduce rots and other incidence of disease,” said Moore.

     Mulch will provide good weed control, reduce moisture loss and blight diseases. However, Moore recommends not applying mulches until soil temperatures are warm.

     It is also a good idea to water from the bottom of the tomato plant with a soaker hose or other forms of trickle irrigation. Avoid moisture to the leaves to reduce foliar blight.

     Pruning of the plant is optional but it does encourage larger fruit of high quality.

      “To reduce the invasion of foliar diseases such as septoria leaf spot consider using a fungicide such as Daconil, Mancozeb or Diathane on a regular seven to ten day schedule beginning at flowering through harvest,” said Moore.

If you have questions about tomatoes, contact your local University of Missouri Extension center and ask for Guide sheet 6461, “Growing Home Garden Tomatoes.”

Tomatoes are the number one crop planted in the vegetable garden according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

“While tomatoes are popular and easy to grow, both the home gardener and commercial grower find it challenging to maintain productivity throughout the growing season,” said Moore.

Diseases such as Septoria leaf spot and early blight affect the lower portion of the tomato plant and shorten productivity. Without effective control, the disease will start at the bottom of the plant and work to the top until plants completely defoliate.
 

Environmental conditions play a role in presence and severity of certain diseases. Abundant rainfall and high humidity pose a threat to severe blight conditions. As a result, blight may be worse some years than others.

Little resistance to blight is available through variety selections, so proper cultural management techniques are important for control.

“Disease management must start early in the season. Once you have the problem, control is difficult,” said Moore. “There are some management practices that can help control blight.”

Site and ground selection. If possible, a three to four year rotation with crops outside of the Solanacea family should be followed. Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are within the same family and these crops should not be included in the rotation planting cycle.

Fertile soil, disease free plants and observing proper planting dates should be followed can help manage blight. “Plants stressed prior to planting or following planting may lead to disaster. Home gardeners should try and avoid planting tomatoes before the soil has warmed to avoid stunting and plant stress. A healthy plant will better resist some diseases,” said Moore.

Avoid ground contact with plant foliage.“For best results, stake tomato plants and mulch underneath them to reduce the incidence of blight transfer from the soil to the plant. Avoid mulching tomatoes until the soil has thoroughly warmed to allow for optimum growth,” said Moore.For the home gardener wheat straw is an excellent mulch source. Blights are soil borne diseases and anything that inhibits the transfer of spores from the ground to the plant will help increase the chances for control, according to Moore.

Good air circulation around the plants (aided by proper spacing and pruning) will reduce blight infections. If room allows, 30 inches between staked indeterminate plants is suggested. “In my opinion, staked versus caged tomatoes will be less pronged for disease. Staked tomatoes are more accessible to proper pruning which removes excess foliage that may hinder air circulation,” said Moore.Basic pruning is the removal of side shoots or suckers when they are three to four inches long.

Avoid overhead irrigation during the evening. “Better yet, trickle irrigation or bottom irrigation will help avoid moisture contact with the leaves reducing conditions for ideal disease development,” said Moore.

If all procedures fail to control blight, be prepared to replant transplants about the middle of July for a fall crop. Typical summer conditions of heat and dry weather result in less incidence of disease thus providing productive plants until frost.

Chemical fungicide application is often needed but application timing is crucial. For the commercial grower, Quadris will provide the best control of foliar disease when alternated with chlorothalonil or mancozeb. Home gardeners may use chlorothalonil (Daconil), maneb, or mancozeb. “Nothing guarantees 100 percent control. But following all of the suggested recommendations for good management and cultural practices is a giant step in the right direction,” said Moore.(back to top)

Sweet Corn Success Can Produce Tasty Bounty

      <sup>Sweet corn is a home gardener’s favorite vegetable because it tastes better when it is harvested and eaten fresh from the garden according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

      “Sweet corn is easily grown with sufficient light, fertility, growing season and space. Successive plantings can yield continual harvest from early summer until frost if the weather cooperates,” said Moore.

      Sweet corn may be divided into three distinct types according to genetics: normal sugary (SU), sugary enhancer (SE) and super sweet (Sh2).

      "For the typical gardener looking for outstanding quality, flavor and refrigerated storage, the sugary enhancer is typically the best choice. Fresh from the garden, virtually all SE releases have eating quality that is superior to others,” said Moore.

     Yellow varieties that Moore has personal experience growing and rates as “outstanding” are Bodacious (72 days), Incredible (83 days), Kandy Korn (89 days), and Miracle (84 days). Ambrosia (75 days) is a bicolor variety that is excellent.

      According to Moore, the super sweet varieties should be planted when the soil temperatures have reached at least 60 to 65 degrees to insure quick germination and even stand of plants.
“I may waste a little seed, but to insure a perfect stand I over plant my seed (about 6 inches apart). Once a stand is established, I thin out plants to about 12 inches apart. Plant the kernels about one-half inch deep in cool, moist soils and one to one and a half inches deep in warm, dry soils,” said Moore.

     Moore recommends planting two or more rows of each variety side by side (with 30 to 36 inches between rows) to ensure good pollination and ear development.</sup>

      Irrigation is the key to controlling weeds in corn. A lack of water during critical periods can also seriously reduce quality and yield.“If rainfall is deficient, irrigate thoroughly during emergence of the tassels, silking, and maturation of the ears. Giving each plant a side-dress of nitrogen fertilizer can also be beneficial,” said Moore.

     Sweet corn ears should be picked when the kernels are fully formed but not fully mature. This stage occurs about 20 days after the appearance of the first silk strands. The kernels are smooth and plump, and the juice in the kernel appears milky when punctured with a thumbnail.

According to Moore, the pest most damaging to corn is the earworm. Unfortunately, the home gardener does not easily control the corn earworm. Research does show that earlier plantings are not as badly infested by earworms as later plantings. Moore also recommends an insecticide like Sevin that can be applied as the silks begin to emerge. “My advice is to counsel with the earworm and compromise how much of the ear tip they may devour. They can have an inch of the tip, but no more. Cutting the worm infected tip off at the time of harvest is not too difficult and can be sufficient,” said Moore.(back to top)
itrogen
Use Care When Side Dressing Vegetables with Nitrogen
     <sup>Vegetables and flowers vary in the amounts of nitrogen they need according to Gaylord Moore, horticulture specialist, University of Missouri Extension.

     “Usually, vegetable crops require most of their nitrogen after they have made considerable growth or have begun to fruit. Too much nitrogen before this time will delay maturity and reduce flowering and yields,” said Moore.

      Plants get nitrogen from three major sources: the breakdown of organic matter, yearly maintenance application of fertilizer or the nitrogen side dressings.

      “Often, the plant needs additional nitrogen by side dressing to complete fruiting and growth and to keep the plant vigorous and healthy,” said Moore.

      However, various plants or crops have different recommended nitrogen side dressings and the timing of the side dressing is very important.

     “The nitrogen with most garden fertilizers is best utilized with frequent light applications,” said Moore.

     For example, tomatoes respond best to about three different side dressings. The first application should be one to two weeks before the first tomato ripens, then two weeks after picking the first ripe tomato, and again, one month later.

      About one-third of a pound of actual nitrogen is required for each 100-foot row. For example, ammonium nitrate is 33 percent nitrogen. It would take about 1 pound of the ammonium nitrate to give the required amount for a 100-foot row of tomatoes.

      “You may figure other high nitrogen type fertilizers to apply based upon the actual nitrogen percentage. Other forms of nitrogen such as urea, calcium nitrate and ammonium sulfate may be used on an equivalent nitrogen basis,” said Moore.

     Other crops that require nitrogen side dressing include: cucumber and cantaloupe about one week after blossoming begins, and again three weeks later; sweet corn, when plants are eight to 10 inches tall and again one week after tassels appear; potatoes, but only after the tuber formation starts.</sup>

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